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You don’t get 0-60 times on a 1/4 mile slip. The 60’ time is 1.51

It takes about 2 minutes to get the steering wheel off. There’s no reason to pay someone.

I knew it would be louder…I added Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonators when I did the Thermal 3”. It helps a lot.

Under the intake manifold.

A cracked exhaust past the cats is not an emission component. It’s just a cracked exhaust that failed the safety part of the inspection.

The flex pipes are the most common failure point on the stock exhaust. Pretty much all of them will fail at some point. There are aftermarket replacements for substantially less than the Ford parts. Check out Lethal Performance.

You don’t even have to with an HP device. You can tune as many cars as you want to with them. But…if you do wanna remove it you just reflash the stock file.

They went up to $2700 a set plus mount and balance and barely lasted 15K miles. Even I have my limits.

Nobody…he’s apparently just surprised that pricing increased over 4 1/2 years. lol

Those were BC Forged EH181

From Adam:

With the 25’s having slightly smaller chargers don’t expect quite the same top end performance as the older cars until Adam and others have time to squeeze everything they can out of them.

I’ve had several different tire sizes on my car and the speedo has always been spot on to gps no matter what. I’ve seen virtually nobody change this and the OP’s issue was absolutely not from running a larger OD tire.

The thread is 4 1/2 years old…things have gone up.

Why do you even want to change it?

You may have one of the anomaly cars like mine that need to have the slots lengthened. I’ve seen less than 5 like that since these cars came out.

He had issues after literally thousands of launches. Bushing failures on 4 bolt cars can be counted on half of one hand. Mine looked perfect at over 110K when I installed the JXB inserts.

I like the JXB inserts for 4 bolt cars…they do work and do exactly what they claim. Unfortunately I have some NVH increase and removed them but many haven’t had that experience.

If you put a 325 on the front it’s going to get into the strut. 305/35 for a lowered car is perfect. Most 305/40’s work well for a stock height car. 315/35 is max up front and even that looks comical.

I’ve said a thousand times these double braces aren’t needed. There’s no reason to lock the rear diff down solid on a daily driver. The ID Speed brace was actually engineered to work like a 4 bolt car.