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It’s a speed density car, not MAF.

There is no MAF on this car.

lol if you think that’s all it has in it.

You will still need to salvage the boots and strut mounts from the original struts. As mentioned you’ll need a compressor for that…OR…after the car is on jack stands and the wheels are off, lift one side slightly with a floor jack then take the top nut off the strut. When you lower the floor...

Yes and yes.

If a shop won’t set it where you want it’s time to find a better shop….or a shop with a better tech. All you found is a “green means good” shop.

Other than the perceived power loss there’s no issues. Anyone wanting 24’s already knows how they’ll ride and handle those don’t count to me. Keep the tire height at or below about 31.8”…width and offset at 10 or 10.5 and +30 and you’ll be fine.

Here’s a few I really liked. 2012 Ram R/T Cover of Truckin and another magazine. 700 rwhp 2004 F250 with Cummins swap…multiple magazine features. Another 2004 F250 with a Cummins swap. Also multiple magazine features. 650 rwhp 2016 F150 Platinum. 800+ rwhp

Excess heat is a non-issue….but if you just want shielding Whoosh Motorsports makes some nice catted and heat shielded DP’s. I’m over 110K miles on SPD’s with no shielding and never a hint of an issue. Same can be said for literally every other ST running aftermarket DP’s.

I went further up the downpipe to fit mine.

The stink like shit, sound like shit and nobody worth tuning your car will touch it after you install them. Combine that with the low single digit HP difference over the normal 400 cell high flow cats and there’s literally no reason to run catless.

That’s happen if the diff is cocked from backing up and parking. Pulling forward rotates it up then there’s room.

And there’s the novel because you think I’m attacking you. Give it a rest, Winfield. Yes it’s summer…on the calendar. 52° is not summer weather in the vast majority of the country. You know why other people aren’t out doing it? Because is 100 freaking degrees like real summer….not your 52° I’m...

Hooks on around the edges and Velcro in the cushion…that’s it.

They don’t “all seem to do” anything. There’s not a spec of rust on mine and I have one of the first ones they built.

Dead in the middle of summer…52°

They look kinda goofy up front being so wide and will very likely rub the inner fender liner. Stick with +30 offset…any lower will push them out too far, any higher and you’ll run the risk of hitting the strut body with the tire. 305/35 is a better fit for a lowered car. 305/40 for stock height.

That ass tho…

That weird torsional effect you mention happens even more on the one bolt cars. The first videos showing it were a one bolt car. **** it’s hard for me to type that…they’re 3 and 4 bolt, not 1 and 2. lol https://www.facebook.com/share/v/19gcBMsj9r/?

Just go 30mm from Eibach. No trimming and not quite as far past the fender as 1.25. So that on all 4 corners and set rear camber to -.5° and all the wheels will match in the fender.