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Finally getting into this. Screen and mount are ordered...now I need to step down from the 10" to 8" parts. Do I need this utility box? 2020-2024 Ford Explorer Utility Box LB5Z-7813546-AC | TascaParts.com And just verifying this is the correct bezel? LB5B-19F648-BC

I'm down for one. I'll DM you.

Are those new or used? I’m sure you’ve answered that before…I just missed it.

I don’t have much faith in Google experts….most of it is just people selling their opinion as fact. There’s nothing wrong with cracking a bleeder if you make sure the caliper stays upright and you don’t introduce air into the system…but it’s no more “right” than just compressing the piston...

In 40 years of brake jobs including numerous on this car I’ve never opened a bleeder to compress pistons. Pop off the reservoir cap and push them in slow…same process as has worked since the dawn of hydraulic brakes.

Maybe just that one got water on it. All rotors will rust.

A little sneak peek at what’s coming. The pair of amps will float over the pair of 15’s…and that’s all you’ll see. No wires, no other equipment…nothing but a surgically clean minimalist install.

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You’ll need to compress the pistons on the front only. The rear will automatically retract when you put it into service mode.

As long as you have a boundary to load off of you’ll be fine. The floor is that boundary in a downfire configuration.

Instead of silicone use butyl rope. It’s a much better tool for that job. Silicone will delaminate over time especially off smooth surfaces like car paint. Butyl is what they glue your windshield in with…it’s not going anywhere. I sealed all of those holes with it on my car when I did the roof...

No

If I was doing that I’d fire the port down as well. Just keep the port mouth 1X the diameter of the port off the floor to avoid any noise. Should work really well.

Will it fit and play? Sure. It won’t work very well though…there’s no boundary to load off of so output will be reduced. Aim it backwards if anything…forward would be worse.

No exhaust is adding any power, valves or not. All you bought was sound…tune it in whatever mode you like.

No tune “goes bad”…reloading it probably just cleared and reset whatever the computer was seeing. Once a tune is loaded…it’s loaded.

IMO it wasn’t well designed. It was designed to look big and beefy and they know the average guy will go for the new, shiny “bigger is better” part…even though it made things too stiff and started snapping mounting bolts. Same with the pinion bushings…they were never needed. I believe they were...

If you can sell that story to the dealer, more power to ya.

You can add pretty much anything you want excluding fuel system or turbo upgrades. It won’t make any more power to speak of but the car will run just fine.

I don’t give a **** what company it was. There’s many DP and exhaust mfg’s…my comments apply to all of them. If y’all can’t figure out how to install a simple exhaust you need a new hobby.