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Kill the front bar and front and rear end links. They are 100% not needed. This car doesn’t need a front bar…at all. I’m the one that figured out their front and rear end links fit this car…and told them about it. I’ve also had both front and rear break and my second front set of making noise...

Depends on your radar detector. I prefer Escort products and use their hard wired Smart Cord into the lower fuse panel. I like the additional light display and mute button…it fits great right by the start button for easy access.

That’s nothing more than a repackaged, rebranded, more expensive Borla kit. It’s outdated for these cars. Thermal R&D has a better kit that includes mid-pipes to get rid of the problematic factory flex joints for a lot less money.

The car will generally corner flatter and have less understeer.

Yea it literally just snaps into the track in two spots. Took me a while to see it but was super easy once I did.

The glass has to be released. I just reached in from the bottom and released the tabs…tape the window up first so it doesn’t fall.

Thanks?

Yea…that’s not right.

Ford themselves say it’s to keep them clean.

Some say to keep them clean. Some say to keep fumes out of the car. Whatever the reason is it doesn’t hurt anything to swap them to proper tips. There are tons of cars doing this now…or just using completely fake tips.

Steering wheel.

Hell you could stuff a wooden plug in it and seal it with CLD…you’d want to deaden that whole plastic enclosure anyway. And yes, I’d think some fiberfill would be a good thing.

Adam was actually the first tuner to spend the money for CARB approval for his tuning.

The oem enclosure has never been measured for size or tuning frequency…it’s ported. That said…until someone does that swapping the sub is just throwing shit at the wall and hoping something sticks. If it was me I’d measure that enclosure volume, seal the port to make it a sealed enclosure then...

I travel extensively for work and mine sits for months on end with E50 in the tank. It just sat for like 3 months with nothing but a battery tender on it…fired right up when I was home for a long weekend then went right back in the garage when I left again. Filling the tank is the only thing I...

Volume is bottom left. Shuffle is bottom right.

Purge valve is taking a shit.

A lot of newer integration stuff uses an auto-sense feature to turn on amps and such…or it could be a simple wire to a switched 12V source. There’s no remote out wire off the oem system. You should have a fuse for the new stuff somewhere. Just pull that and see if your issue goes away.

They should be pretty firm. It’s a vibration dampener more than a flex joint.

Times change but I bought my ST for 3% below invoice with nothing but good credit and a walk away attitude.