Search results

I got the first part for this conversion yesterday. I rented a Limited that has the 8” screen…and I hear that rubber tray liner is expensive so… lol

For fucks sake you don’t need a camber kit. Those literally bolt into the factory camber adjustment slot and have LESS adjustment range than stock. Tell that guy to **** of.

Depends on how you drive. It wasn’t acceptable to me considering my happy place is fast, off camber downhill sweepers in the mountains and I don’t want the ass end getting light when I’m late braking into one.

The front will generally be around -.8° to -.1°…give or take on each side depending on how square the subframe is. Caster will be fine…set toe to spec. Set the rear how I already posted and it’ll be happy.

In a panic stop it will nose dive substantially more than a full system will….the back end will lighten up a lot.

A 20” wheel barrel will fit the Rotoras. The spokes may not though…you may need a spacer.

Moving rear toe will drag the camber with it a bit….thats all they did. They didn’t touch the actual rear camber bolt….guaranteed. Find a real shop then take the readout back to the manager at the first shop and drop it in his lap.

For any wheel and tire set up.

Rear camber should be -.5° for optimum wheel fitment and rear toe under .1

Downfire works well for these cars. You just need to vent the sides of the panel you already have. This panel looks like nothing is there but it’s vented for a pair of 12’s and the amps underneath.

You’ll be fine. Just make sure you note and check all the electrical connections as you R&R the bumper.

Redline turns brown with use. I’m wondering if the OP didn’t have the diff bolt recall done and this is residual stuff from that.

Unless you ran an RTA and measured it you cannot know that. Phase cancellation is real and measurements are the only way to know for sure. You could also get more output by venting the sides of the top cover portion of your enclosure. Just flush in the mesh of your choice and cover with carpet.

I does look more greasy than oily.

Gear oil isn’t red.

I have too but everything was covered. This is only on the subframe…not the diff, axles, exhaust or anything else you can see. Migrating that far and only being on the subframe doesn’t seem likely.

That’s the rear subframe. Hard to see trans fluid migrating that far.

That’s an interesting one. Gear oil isn’t red and there’s nothing on the diff cover. It’s almost like it’s something residual that got splashed onto the subframe. I’d clean it off with a few cans of brake cleaner and watch it for a while to see if something returns.

Help people help you.

I’m succinct and to the point.