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8 years or 80K miles is the federal emission warranty for those parts. If it’s under those limits they have no choice but to replace it. if it’s not and you have to pay for it…have a muffler shop weld it up for 20 bucks.

Generally done with a tune. Most tuners prefer one heat range colder.

I’ve lowered every vehicle I’ve ever owned minus two 4WD’s that were lifted. I always, without fail, readjust the headlights.

Camber isn’t a significant contributor to tire wear. Toe wears tires.

He did not.

You’ll likely have to make them do that camber setting. They’ll be looking to just get it green and send you down the road.

There’s way too many “green means go” shops out there.

I don’t think I’d mix an Eibach front and a Steeda rear unless you want some 1970’s muscle car rake. It’s gonna be fairly pronounced.

This is a good example of how much negative camber you’ll have using normal alignment specs. -.5° gets rid of that…and the need for a staggered spacer.

Just get a tool on it however works for you but that’s the adjustment point.

Your camber after a drop will be in the -2° range…moving it out to -.5° stands the wheel up straighter eliminating the inward lean at the top that keeps it from being flush.

It’s -.5°, the decimal is pretty important. What it does is make the rear wheels match the front as far as how they fit in the fender wells…flush on both ends with the right wheel or spacer.

Crazy that we’re almost 6 years in and they still skip that bolt. I understand it back when we got the very first drop springs and machines weren’t updated yet. I found it myself and went back to the shop and back on the machine but this far in…it’s inexcusable for a shop to miss that.

Wired ProClip > everything else.

That ^^ or a sunroof drain hose popped off.

I got into project management so I can fix all the engineers stuff. lol

Take the engineer hat off and think about things logically. lol If you have to trim the wheel studs 5-6mm to fit a 1” spacer…extended studs are not the solution.

Yea Sync 4 changed things.

I rebuild headrests all the time to suit what I want. Take one apart and section the angled parts of the legs 3/4” or so and weld them back together. It’s generally not hard to do…or have done if you don’t have the equipment.

I popped all of those inserts out and replaced them with riv nuts and socket head bolts…I didn’t like those tiny screws. After that I found some round push pins large enough to seat securely in the square holes…it’s been perfect to date.