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You went from a closed box intake to a pair of open filters…you’re going to hear turbo noises. That’s why people buy them.

You can’t put a flat plate under either end of a the coils.

Replacing the oem sub is an exercise in futility. There’s threads here to read if you search but long story short it’s a dvc sub in a thin, plastic, ported enclosure of unknown volume or tuning and dropping in something that will actually work would be as lucky as hitting the lotto. Plus if...

I’d push it back in with a trim tool or a smooth butter knife first. That grille is held in place with folded tabs and isn’t as easy to get off as you might think. If tucking it back in doesn’t last just have them replace the door panel.

Show me one place where I said it’s your fault? You can’t…because I never said that. Again…if you don’t like the CVF parts, return them and buy something else.

Did you even read this thread? Everything you mentioned is covered in here already.

Why are you this deep in your feelings over a couple hundred dollar part? Everyone else that’s found this gap has had no issues with their car. CVF has said it’s not gonna hurt anything too. You just didn’t get the response from them you wanted so you come here and do whatever this post is. If...

Yes, and no.

Nope…no relation and don’t work for them. I just get a kick out of people going off over easily rectified issues like it’s the end of the world. Send the shit back…buy FenFab…”problem” solved. Now write me another novel please…

I say it isn’t an issue because everyone else isn’t having any functional issues with the exact same fitment. If you wanna bitch and moan…go for it.

This is well known and actually isn’t an issue. The o-ring seals it and it functions fine. You’re about the 742516394936th person I’ve seen bring it up.

This has been discussed thousands of times. The search bar is full of answers.

I don’t see why not. Any electronic cleaner should be fine.

It’s a speed density car, not MAF.

There is no MAF on this car.

lol if you think that’s all it has in it.

You will still need to salvage the boots and strut mounts from the original struts. As mentioned you’ll need a compressor for that…OR…after the car is on jack stands and the wheels are off, lift one side slightly with a floor jack then take the top nut off the strut. When you lower the floor...

Yes and yes.

If a shop won’t set it where you want it’s time to find a better shop….or a shop with a better tech. All you found is a “green means good” shop.

Other than the perceived power loss there’s no issues. Anyone wanting 24’s already knows how they’ll ride and handle those don’t count to me. Keep the tire height at or below about 31.8”…width and offset at 10 or 10.5 and +30 and you’ll be fine.