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If an impact won’t break it loose or you don’t have one…use the pass through. And you don’t need to go buy a special socket…just use the right size spark plug socket and a wrench.

Typical filter and fluid swap…drop the pan and refill.

I think you’re overthinking this. Look at the door panel before they install it and you’ll know immediately if it’s the right part or not. After that, there’s really nothing to screw up. It’s four screws, a few plugs, the door lock and the door handle pull.

You have something else going on. Radio channels save just fine on any source.

You can’t fix that piece and it takes less than 10 minutes to fully swap a door panel.

Hub bore is wrong so make sure you get rings…and stick with a 305 tire.

If they had everything apart I’d look at the alignment first. Really bad toe could make it walk around like that.

Nothing wrong with those shocks. The bolt is angled…it only goes in so far.

Put it in Sport mode

A sealed enclosure doesn’t use a subsonic filter at all. LPF should be around 80 No EQ Gain is used to level match the sources output. There’s no set level it should be at.

It doesn’t make any sense at all. BUT…it wouldn’t be the first time they did something that didn’t make any sense.

You’re limited to the Lincoln colors and themes. I just picked a dark one. What’s weird is after the Forscan changes required it starts up with the ST splash screen but it shuts down with the Lincoln splash screen. I posted on fmods about possibly changing the background and was told it’s not...

I’m not sure I know what you mean? Can you be more specific? I don’t have anything I’d consider a problem with mine.

I highly doubt they deleted one side. It was never installed on your car.

You have some misunderstandings on the subject. You don’t need to add fuel with a simple CAI or exhaust swap and you don’t need to add anything for an E50 tune except ethanol. The bigger HPFP and injectors are for running E60- straight E85.

Shops are lazy and stupid. Jack your car up until the wheels are hanging, secure it then loosen that bolt on both sides. Gravity will max it out and it’ll be right at -.5°. Tighten the bolt back up and go have the toe reset.

Your mechanic is wrong. Period. It’s not even negotiable. The UCA bolt at the frame is a slotted connection to adjust rear camber. It’s not an adjustment bolt…which is called an eccentric…the bolt hole itself is slotted. Anyone that tells you anything different is a fool. And again…that camber...

So I’ve tried quite a few to include oem all weather, Husky, Smartliner and as of today Weathertech. I’d put Smartliner above them all. I’ve had Weathertechs in the past and forgot how thin they are compared to some others. The Smartliners I took out today were at least 50% thicker and a lot...

If it’s aligned within spec there is no camber wear. Extreme camber like stanced cars, yes. 2° or less won’t wear a tire.

They have to swap it…and they know it.