Search results

Sport mode tightens up the electric steering.

Go with the NGK Ruthenium’s.

I like that it includes the whole back piece that’s extra to but also. I think I’m gonna order it.

Camber doesn’t really wear tires…toe does.

I saw this mount from a guy in Poland on a FB group and just happened to save his name. I can’t find the post again but has anyone else used it? It looks amazing and he told me $215 shipped which is almost too good to be true but whoever ordered it on FB seemed pleased. Has anyone else seen or...

Man don’t even start that old wives tale again. Ford can connect any aftermarket part you install to something else in 1/2 a second and when they do that’s the end of the hunt. Ford even put out a manual of sorts of things for dealers to look for. Lots of people say they have great...

Jack it up, loosen the UCA/frame bolt and gravity will do the rest. Then go get the toe set.

I got the first part for this conversion yesterday. I rented a Limited that has the 8” screen…and I hear that rubber tray liner is expensive so… lol

For fucks sake you don’t need a camber kit. Those literally bolt into the factory camber adjustment slot and have LESS adjustment range than stock. Tell that guy to **** of.

Depends on how you drive. It wasn’t acceptable to me considering my happy place is fast, off camber downhill sweepers in the mountains and I don’t want the ass end getting light when I’m late braking into one.

The front will generally be around -.8° to -.1°…give or take on each side depending on how square the subframe is. Caster will be fine…set toe to spec. Set the rear how I already posted and it’ll be happy.

In a panic stop it will nose dive substantially more than a full system will….the back end will lighten up a lot.

A 20” wheel barrel will fit the Rotoras. The spokes may not though…you may need a spacer.

Moving rear toe will drag the camber with it a bit….thats all they did. They didn’t touch the actual rear camber bolt….guaranteed. Find a real shop then take the readout back to the manager at the first shop and drop it in his lap.

For any wheel and tire set up.

Rear camber should be -.5° for optimum wheel fitment and rear toe under .1

Downfire works well for these cars. You just need to vent the sides of the panel you already have. This panel looks like nothing is there but it’s vented for a pair of 12’s and the amps underneath.

You’ll be fine. Just make sure you note and check all the electrical connections as you R&R the bumper.

Redline turns brown with use. I’m wondering if the OP didn’t have the diff bolt recall done and this is residual stuff from that.

Unless you ran an RTA and measured it you cannot know that. Phase cancellation is real and measurements are the only way to know for sure. You could also get more output by venting the sides of the top cover portion of your enclosure. Just flush in the mesh of your choice and cover with carpet.