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lol…relax, man. The car isn’t going to rot because it sat for a little bit. Cars will sit on dealer lots longer than that sometimes. I leave my cars parked for months on end due to business travel…I go home, jump in and go on with my day. You don’t need to do a single thing you mentioned.

Previously I would have said just get non adjustable but honestly if you’re spending the money you might as well get the adjustable ones. They do make setting toe really easy.

There’s always button sequences built into cars to do things without having to add another button. Resetting the auto windows…resetting the head unit, etc.

Yes it’s becoming a common practice for cars with EPB. It retracts the pistons and once taken out of that mode it sets the pad height for proper EPB function. That’s why you don’t just unplug the battery like some will tell you.

The oem Timberline rear diff is a Torsen.

Uhhh…go read post #1. This whole thread is literally about buying and trying that part.

Similar for sure but not the same. IB will get extremely low on very low power and I’m after that single digit response. lol

They will be in an infinite baffle configuration like my midbass are. There is no enclosure.

Read post #3…then go check under the hood.

You check for boost leaks initially by putting your hand on every pressurized connection and feel all the way around to make sure nothing has popped loose

Winter rebuild things are showing up. I had Acoustic Elegance build these subs for me. They’re IB15AU’s and I’ll be cutting the tire well out to vent them outside the car. Also swapping amps to a pair of Mosconi Pro 5/30’s to have one amp per side of the car. Should make for a good time.

I have the 10 in my car and the 8 in a rental I have right now. After seeing it in person there’s no way that’s a valid swap. That thing is tiny.

It takes about an hour…not hard at all. A little tedious but not hard. As for lifespan…30-30k if tuned. They eat plugs like candy. Go a gear range colder gapped at .028. The NGK Ruthenium’s are the smoothest I’ve ran so far.

I didn’t but I’ve had the wheel apart a few times to recover it. The trim is super easy to get off once the wheel is off so swapping it would also be easy.

Use a mirror to look down into the spring pocket…it’ll be easy to spot if that’s it.

Probably a rear spring not centered in the perch and rubbing on the LCA.

Blah blah blah…90% of the time it’s just a misalignment and no…not an issue. Take 30 seconds and fix it yourself and go on with your life. Looks like he might be the 10%

Smack the weather stripping. Sometimes it’s not seated all the way on the pinch weld.

It just slipped out from under the rubber. Stick your finger in there and fix it and find a real issue to worry about.

It firms it up, makes it heavier…tighter….many ways to describe it but switching between normal and sport on the highway it’s easy to feel the difference.