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I have a 4 bolt car. I do have an ID Speed brace on but only because I tested them for the owner.

Gonna have my friend that does high end audio installs work that one out. I imagine some laser cut black acrylic will be used but I’m gonna give him free rein to work it out.

Believe it or not those billet aluminum flags started life as trailer hitch covers I found on eBay. They’re at least 1/4” thick and were screwed to normal 2” hitch inserts. I took them apart and used 3M tape to mount them.

I guess this refresh/update is gonna be more involved than I planned. Parts ordered or on the shelf: Aviator screen Dariusz Kedzior mount 10” to 8” conversion parts Screen will be disassembled and a custom bezel fabricated. I refuse to use that ugly 3D printed bottom piece. JXB dual inserts...

File it under “shit happens”. Strut bearings go bad..sometimes they’re built bad. Sounds like your dealer is on it and it doesn’t hurt anything for you to drive it.

lol…just can’t admit there’s more than one way to skinny cat can ya? Your claim that it’s the “right way” is just your opinion…nothing more, nothing less.

It’s called tramlining…have your tires and alignment checked before you start throwing money at parts that won’t fix it.

Finally getting into this. Screen and mount are ordered...now I need to step down from the 10" to 8" parts. Do I need this utility box? 2020-2024 Ford Explorer Utility Box LB5Z-7813546-AC | TascaParts.com And just verifying this is the correct bezel? LB5B-19F648-BC

I'm down for one. I'll DM you.

Are those new or used? I’m sure you’ve answered that before…I just missed it.

I don’t have much faith in Google experts….most of it is just people selling their opinion as fact. There’s nothing wrong with cracking a bleeder if you make sure the caliper stays upright and you don’t introduce air into the system…but it’s no more “right” than just compressing the piston...

In 40 years of brake jobs including numerous on this car I’ve never opened a bleeder to compress pistons. Pop off the reservoir cap and push them in slow…same process as has worked since the dawn of hydraulic brakes.

Maybe just that one got water on it. All rotors will rust.

A little sneak peek at what’s coming. The pair of amps will float over the pair of 15’s…and that’s all you’ll see. No wires, no other equipment…nothing but a surgically clean minimalist install.

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You’ll need to compress the pistons on the front only. The rear will automatically retract when you put it into service mode.

As long as you have a boundary to load off of you’ll be fine. The floor is that boundary in a downfire configuration.

Instead of silicone use butyl rope. It’s a much better tool for that job. Silicone will delaminate over time especially off smooth surfaces like car paint. Butyl is what they glue your windshield in with…it’s not going anywhere. I sealed all of those holes with it on my car when I did the roof...

No

If I was doing that I’d fire the port down as well. Just keep the port mouth 1X the diameter of the port off the floor to avoid any noise. Should work really well.