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I highly doubt they deleted one side. It was never installed on your car.

You have some misunderstandings on the subject. You don’t need to add fuel with a simple CAI or exhaust swap and you don’t need to add anything for an E50 tune except ethanol. The bigger HPFP and injectors are for running E60- straight E85.

Shops are lazy and stupid. Jack your car up until the wheels are hanging, secure it then loosen that bolt on both sides. Gravity will max it out and it’ll be right at -.5°. Tighten the bolt back up and go have the toe reset.

Your mechanic is wrong. Period. It’s not even negotiable. The UCA bolt at the frame is a slotted connection to adjust rear camber. It’s not an adjustment bolt…which is called an eccentric…the bolt hole itself is slotted. Anyone that tells you anything different is a fool. And again…that camber...

So I’ve tried quite a few to include oem all weather, Husky, Smartliner and as of today Weathertech. I’d put Smartliner above them all. I’ve had Weathertechs in the past and forgot how thin they are compared to some others. The Smartliners I took out today were at least 50% thicker and a lot...

If it’s aligned within spec there is no camber wear. Extreme camber like stanced cars, yes. 2° or less won’t wear a tire.

They have to swap it…and they know it.

8 years or 80K miles is the federal emission warranty for those parts. If it’s under those limits they have no choice but to replace it. if it’s not and you have to pay for it…have a muffler shop weld it up for 20 bucks.

Generally done with a tune. Most tuners prefer one heat range colder.

I’ve lowered every vehicle I’ve ever owned minus two 4WD’s that were lifted. I always, without fail, readjust the headlights.

Camber isn’t a significant contributor to tire wear. Toe wears tires.

He did not.

You’ll likely have to make them do that camber setting. They’ll be looking to just get it green and send you down the road.

There’s way too many “green means go” shops out there.

I don’t think I’d mix an Eibach front and a Steeda rear unless you want some 1970’s muscle car rake. It’s gonna be fairly pronounced.

This is a good example of how much negative camber you’ll have using normal alignment specs. -.5° gets rid of that…and the need for a staggered spacer.

Just get a tool on it however works for you but that’s the adjustment point.

Your camber after a drop will be in the -2° range…moving it out to -.5° stands the wheel up straighter eliminating the inward lean at the top that keeps it from being flush.

It’s -.5°, the decimal is pretty important. What it does is make the rear wheels match the front as far as how they fit in the fender wells…flush on both ends with the right wheel or spacer.

Crazy that we’re almost 6 years in and they still skip that bolt. I understand it back when we got the very first drop springs and machines weren’t updated yet. I found it myself and went back to the shop and back on the machine but this far in…it’s inexcusable for a shop to miss that.