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Surely you were able to hear that?

I’ll be running a 3-way active front plus sub. No center channel and no rear fill.

No. Rotora has a huge kit available but it’s pricy. North of $8K for front and rear kits.

Calipers are larger as well.

They’re hybrid and all that extra weight pretty much cancels out the extra HP.

+40 will work but will be fairly close to the strut...well the tire sidewall will be anyway especially with a 305. +35 is better obviously. +30 is getting into custom made wheels but is perfect for a flush fitment. 1/4” slip on spacers are fine on stock studs just make sure the center bore is...

No, I’m saying the VTA mod dumps all the pressure and could cause some lag with spirited driving. The 50/50 BOV prevents this.

Larger front and rear and vented front and rear. Calipers are larger as well. Your rear rotors are solid.

I actually need to do this myself. They’re pretty sad the way they come.

The 50/50 TS BOV also vents part of it back into the intake tract...that helps keep the chargers spooled during spirited driving.

You need a pump that can support the volume needed to run E85 straight...the oem pump can’t handle it.

I believe I’d just weld that shut before I went through the hassle of swapping it.

They are a direct bolt in option.

So you don’t like seeing at night or what? lol

It’s just the tuning.

There’s definitely a point of diminishing returns on CLD coverage but I bought 4 bulk packs and I’m also a little old school and overkill never hurt anything. It’s all personal preference. Having it done in a shop...I can’t imagine what that would cost. I have about $800 in materials...figure a...

Last area so far was the rear panels from the b-pillars back. There’s a lot of stuff under there that had to be removed for access to the outer skin. CLD was used to add mass to the rear ac ducting then they were wrapped with 1/8” CCF. 1/4” CCF was used everywhere possible along with Tessa tape...

Doors were next. Fully gutted, 100% CLD on inner and outer skins as well as where possible on interior panels. 1/4” CCF, butyl and Tessa tape was used on everything that could present a rattle or vibration.

Figured I’d put this all in one place in case people wanna see what’s behind the interior panels. My audio system gear is evolving...trying to keep cost reasonable but still play in the high end of things. Right now the plan is: Nav TV Zen A2B interface Helix DSP Pro with Director controller...

That’s literally all it is. The oems work with different brands, get input on the tuning and maybe if they’re lucky some input on driver placement then the oems take it from there. Every B&O speaker in an ST is labeled Ford.