Search results

What’s not awesome is all the hot air it draws into the one air filter. That’s the worst intake design out there of these cars. There’s a reason nobody else did that.

Unless yours are damaged you don’t need to replace the stops.

There will be a noticeable improvement to any Ford shock or strut if they have 30K miles or more on them. By 50K they’re horrible.

Just grab the PIU struts and new bearings and reuse the mounts. Takes 5 minutes per side to assemble them.

At least you have options. You should’ve been here back in 2020 when there was no aftermarket support and parts were barely trickling in. What you have is called a “first world“ problem.

If it just took off the coating you can sand the whole light and repolish it. I would have them PPF coated after that over the aerosol clearcoat some people use.

Yes. It intercepts all the info, send car stuff to the car so your phone calls and bells and whistles work then gives you either optical out to a DSP or rca out to a DSP or amps.

I use the Zen A2B. You really need that or similar to completely change the B&O stuff. The LC2i is barely good enough to add a sub amp. It’s not even close to the right tool of the job you’re doing.

Either that or something like a NavTV or MoBridge interface.

Plug the factory amp back in. If you removed everything and added amps and only used an LC2i you did about half the job. You should have used an actual interface to remove the amp but keep all your chimes and such. You would also have a better input signal than just tapping a few wires.

Make sure you didn’t knock a plug loose on anything in that area. If the factory amp doesn’t kick on the radio will display Audio Off.

The ID Speed and Livernois braces are the only ones on the market that haven’t had a failure, and that includes AWR cracking at the bolt holes and diff bolt breakage even with it installed. The world record 1/4 mile ST runs ID…hard to put one through harder testing than Kathy has.

Done and ready for tuning.

A good shop would have loosened and centered your front subframe. It’s super easy to do but they’d rather sell you parts.

No. It’s a grill cloth that’s very close to the headliner.

Test fitting

I wouldn’t even use the cheesecloth. A few bugs and rocks down the old gullet never hurt anything. lol

Nobody picked up 1/2 a second with the mods he did in a 2.3 Explorer, not even an ST. Period. It did not happen. It’s physically not possible. No decrease in ET happened by cutting a big hole in the shroud.

Grown man? Your whole persona is petulant child insults about things you don’t even understand. You couldn’t buy your whole fucking car for what it would cost you to build my audio system and you think all I’m doing is “ bumping around town“? We can all see who the tool is…

You keep talking, but you still haven’t proved me wrong. All you do is flap your gums. Go back to wherever you were sucking before and suck there.