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All that to run 12’s. lol

You need to remove the brackets and bushings from the bar and grease everything, liberally. Changing a setting won’t mater when the bar wasn’t installed correctly.

Your 2.3 Explorer is probably faster than that tank.

My 2020 has never been updated. lol

That was over 5 years ago. I don’t have a link.

Went up against some very tough cars today and pulled out a win on totality after a tie for first

Not enough grease on the bushings.

Yep…they deleted them a couple years back. I didn’t believe it myself.

There’s a specific tool needed but of course the driveshaft can be removed without damage. I would be worried about leaving my car with a shop that told me otherwise.

Discount Tire has a store exclusive of that tire that’s cheaper. The Control Contact Sport SRS+. It’s the DWS06 carcass with a different tread pattern. It’s a fantastic tire I’ve had on 3 vehicles now with zero complaints.

The shops I deal with absolutely will do things properly. It’s not a bad home project for someone with average mechanical skills though.

Proper sound treatments will absolutely make the car quieter.

I always recommend the firmest. These cars love it.

The hole furthest from the end of the bar, like I said in post #44…is the inside hole, not the outside.

Been there…that’s gonna drone like crazy.

Absolutely not. The outside hole is the softest.

The hole furthest from the end of the bar.

He moved on to greener pastures a while back. Not sure if he still checks in or not but haven’t seen him post in a year or so. To your question though…yes at 99K it’s past time for shocks and struts. I would recommend the PIU parts for that. They’re rumored to be firmer than the ST parts but...

Not a bad first outing with the new audio changes…I’m very happy and got some great feedback to make a few changes before the next one in two weeks. MASQ Pro Mod 1st IASCA Advanced Amateur 2nd EMMA Master Unlimited 1st MCA M4+ 2nd

I’ve never even been in one. Always wondered what 8% difference even feels like.