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It’s the shocks and struts that are firmer in the ST. If you swap those it will soften up the ride. I’m actually considering it myself just to see how it feels with the rest of my suspension mods.

You don’t need a double polyurethane bushing brace. There’s no reason to lock the diff down on your daily driver. Bigger doesn’t always mean better…or even needed.

I found the bar on eBay and built the mounts.

I literally have to screenshot my own pics then post that. The originals will not load to be shown as a full image no matter what I do. This is the only forum that’s an issue with, even others running the same software.

Just get the ID Speed diff brace and be done with it. It’s engineered to work with the car as if it’s a 4 bolt car and is the best one on the market. You don’t need the insert in that case.

Because most of them rub if you’re lowered and the cost of a name brand tire is astronomical. My last set of 315/35’s was $2700 plus mount and balance and I got 15K miles out of them. The cost benefit isn’t there. They tramline like crazy and I also had to replace the front fender liners. A...

95% chance it’ll rub. There’s a few narrow running 305’s that clear.

We have over 6 years of fitment experience with these cars now. He’ll be fine with his combo.

Read post #7 again.

None. I tested a bunch of different size TB’s on a ProCharged truck of mine…none made any more power but the bigger they got the more drivability issues showed up.

Not really needed on a pressurized system like this. No on something that draws through like a Whipple supercharger you want as big as you can get. IIRC the one on my F150 was 132mm.

Actually quite a few people have snapped those vertical links. I had the Steeda inserts then moved to the FenFab billet links.

Added an Anderson SB50 connector under the hood for easier access to plug in my power supply at audio competitions. Not my first choice of locations but I was limited by the size of the flush mount cover.

I have charging posts under the rear of the car for my power supply but this will be a lot easier to access….added an SB50 Anderson connector under the hood.

Mine doesn’t do that as far as I’ve ever noticed.

Almost 6 hours of tuning and a quick trip to the upholstery shop to hem the cut edge and this project is done. First show of the season is next weekend.

Nah…just get the FenFab cold side without the BOV flange.

Did some fine tuning on the dash midrange install. Last step will be having the dash mat hemmed where in had to cut it around the pods. This project is 99% done. The pods actually overlay the pillars to push the drivers out as far as possible. Laser scanning and 3D printing in the hands of an...

I think everyone knows I don’t sugar coat things.

If someone wants a sub par intake from an absolute prick of a fabricator…his stuff is available. Funny how he runs his mouth online but when he’s standing in front of me he doesn’t have the balls to even open his mouth. He also did a bunch of dick move stuff when he left HSF. There’s a reason...