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Better double check axle spline count. It varies and the ring gear is welded to the carrier.

Your only option is the various films on the market. Not sure if Lamin-X has them for that year yet but they’re generally the best. I guess you could take the lights apart and swap the built in chips to yellow if you have that skill set but I haven’t seen anyone do that yet.

The problem with SuperLube is it’s not really thick enough and doesn’t last nearly as long as the Energy Suspension silicone grease you can easily get. It’s the industry standard and what pretty much everyone sends out with their bars or bushings. O’Reilly can usually have it same day.

The ID Speed is the best around if you need a brac.

You’ll be fine.

I think they’re all anodized aluminum. Just strip the ano and polish everything. Only takes a few minutes to strip.

Again, you need silicone grease. You can buy small containers of it from Energy Suspension at O’Reilly.

You can intentionally ignore what I wrote all you want….that still doesn’t make you an expert. I know plenty of people with post graduate degrees that are idiots. Now read what I said about the car again real slow and maybe you’ll understand it.

And again…if that needs to happen, something isn’t right with the car. When working properly, they self learn. Period. How long you’ve done your job doesn’t change that fact.

If the car is working correctly that’s 100% the case. It’s literally how the car is designed to work. I have yet to do anything but drive in close to 6 years and countless wheel and tire swaps and rotations including a rotation last week. If a car doesn’t auto detect the TPMS there’s something...

Most vehicles might, new Ford vehicles do not. If the sensors are good they will auto learn after driving a few miles. This has been the case for years now.

He has a new rear bar, this isn’t a hard bushing issue. It’s an incorrectly greased, install issue.

Red grease is usually like axle grease. Stop going to that shop…now. Get someone to take it apart and clean that trash off then reinstall with the correct grease. And again, moving the end link to a different hole will NOT stop a bushing from squeaking.

Polyurethane bushings need silicone grease, not oil. If your shop truly used oil, you need a new shop.

Oil?

It’s an incredible amount of work. Just setting up and tearing down the pit/trailer/awnings was hours of work and if I never pull a still smoking converter out of a car again just to make the next round I think I’m just fine with that. When it was fun though…it was a LOT of fun. I do miss it...

I spent many years in a toter going all over the country working on this and other Pro Mods. Had a blast then one day it just wasn’t fun anymore.

What did you say you were going to do? Join a group for cars you don’t own and run slower than a stock one? Yea…you definitely did that.

That’s your projection as I’ve never said that. You just don’t like what I’ve said about your pointless mods so it’s a feelings thing for you. I don’t care about your feelings…or your slow cars.

Kinda like posting your 2.3 in an ST group…keep telling yourself it’s fast.