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This will be cost prohibitive for anyone with a brain in their head. It’s definitely not something there would be a market for to sell I don’t think. Buying two screens plus labor you’re probably at near $1500 unless you get the screens for dirt cheap.

I started a thread to show everything that’s being done in case anyone wants to mimic the process. As far as buying…I highly doubt anyone would be nutty enough to spend what this costs. lol Labor alone is more than what both screens cost.

A few more pics of the current state. I’ll add more when the last trim piece is done. if you look close at the shell you can see where the 2 were bonded together. Having a laser on hand to make the cuts perfect helped a lot.

Modified Aviator screen almost complete.

Sneak peek at my take on the Aviator screen swap. I took my idea and a spare screen to a friend at a high end audio shop who specializes in trim work…this is where we are right now. The whole bottom was cut off the screen I’m going to use then the top was cut off the spare and blended together...

I didn’t like the tiny oem hardware holding the skid plate on…and I do like overkill…so I added 5 riv-nuts for M8-1.25 socket head bolts and it’s definitely solid now.

Yea they look really good.

There are no misconceptions as it pertains to this thread. The wheels in question have the smaller hub bore. That was never in question.

You’re the one that needs to do research. You don’t have an Explorer ST which is what this group is for. You have an older model…so the hub works. Those wheels won’t bolt up to an Explorer ST without modification. Basically…you’re in the wrong group.

So I really dig the 4.5” tips AWE uses…and eBay is full of exhaust tips so…dual 4.5”s on the way.

I personally wouldn’t own an Audio Control product. They’re noisy and just not something I take seriously…many others agree. For what you’re describing the Helix V8 DSP MK2 would be perfect. It would run everything you list active and has an output for the dedicated sub amp you already have.

Sneak peek with the heads, ST-Line grille and tinted Timberline emblem.

Both posts were done exactly the same way using my iPhone and all are jpeg images. Why some show and some don’t I have no idea.

Todays stuff. Houston Speed Freaks skid plate, JXB bushing inserts (I have the HSF bolts but need to grab a bigger Allen key) and got the tinted Euro heads in. Notice in the one pic they have adjusters for both high and low beams instead of only one for the US version.

They’re all just pics off my iPhone like normal.

Dunno what’s different. I’ve posted hundreds of pics here off my phone with no issues. I haven’t changed that process.

Plenty of 2025 cars with no issues and that CAI…same goes for 20-24 cars. It’s been proven about 99% of the time it’s an installer error somewhere along the way. Rarely has it been a part issue. Double and triple check every aspect of your install…even if it “looks” good…get hands on and make...

Here’s how I did the Ultra Quiet’s on the 3” Thermal. I shortened the SPD DP’s and got rid of the support bracket, fit and clamped everything then pulled it apart and welded one side so there’s only one clamped connection there. Overall it’s absolutely quieter than any Thermal I’ve heard. Once...

Nope. lol

This is a separate part. Not part of the CAI