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Do it now.

I saw a car with both…IMO it didn’t look good. They’re both at different angles and don’t really compliment each other. I’d stick with one or the other.

I bought a battery powered DeWalt leaf blower specifically for drying cars. It beats the hell out of any other method.

I use a horsehair brush then dry it with a leaf blower.

-1° is well within spec and there nothing wrong with it. -.5° is using camber as another tool to perfect wheel fitment and make the rear tries even with the front at the fender arch.

I did all the fab work myself. I’ve heard others quoted north of $2K for fab and paint. The cut up Jeep hood and new vents ran about $200, supplies were another $300ish then whatever it cost to paint but I had other stuff painted at the same time so I’m not sure what the hood alone was.

The rear is the lightest tint Lamin-X has. The new heads I’m not sure what it is…the lightest PPF the shop had where I dropped them off.

Aviators don’t have a full screen back up camera. The birdseye view is on one side but there’s a button to select full screen. You just have to hit it each time. There’s a decoder you can get for all time full screen but it’s not native.

I don’t have this issue and didn’t “fix” anything. Just made the changes with Forscan and everything works as it should.

A rear swaybar and Steeda rear subframe bushing brace kit should be on every ST. The difference in stability and handling is incredible.

This thread is about the difference between different springs on different cars. Your measurement only applying to your car helps nobody. If you measured it like I said then others could compare their cars to yours…which is, again, the point of the thread. Example…my car measures 17” front and...

Not sure what’s so hard to understand but no, the delta would not necessarily be the same. If tires, tread and air pressure were identical between two cars, yes. If any of those variables is different? No, it would change things. Let’s say two cars have identical suspensions…but different tire...

No, it would not be true. Axle centerline to fender arch would be identical no matter how big or small of a tire you installed. Maybe you’re not understanding the process. I’m not measuring any part of the tire and ride height isn’t even a part of the question, I’m measuring the suspension...

Yes, it’s the more accurate and proper way. For your way to work each car would need to at minimum have the same exact size tire with the same tire pressure and the same tread depth. Axle centerline to fender arch would be the same no matter what. It’s the industry standard if you will for...

It’s a sensor, not a button.

For accurate comparisons you measure from the axle centerline to the fender arch.

Buy a couple of rear door panels and the window trim with the hooks built in off eBay. Wouldn’t take 30 minutes to swap it all out.

Luck has nothing to do with it. That’s how a properly functioning car works. I recently put a whole new, never mounted set of wheels, tires and sensors on my car…within 1/4 mile everything was function as it should. Also just talked someone through this last night when they swapped on oem 21’s...

It’s -.5° and the decimal is extremely important. if they don’t know where to adjust after the car has been out for over 5 years I’m not sure I’d trust them to begin with but it’s the upper control arm where it bolts to the frame. They’ll have to reach up high. After that it’s just a normal...

Simple to me but I can also weld. If you can’t or don’t have access it’s simple for any muffler shop.