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That still won’t be flush if that’s what you’re after.

Yes it will work but why? 1/4” isn’t gonna make an appreciable difference.

They can’t rev it past the safeties already built in…it’s gonna be just fine.

It snaps onto a retainer. The retainer is what bolts to the car up there so have them make sure that’s straight and if so…just like I said on Facebook days ago…that’s why heat guns exist.

I do all my own work. This was documented in my build log here.

Correct

They killed it in early 2022. Cars still under warranty can actually get it swapped under a TSB. I’m way past that point.

It’s in the menu settings on the steering wheel.

Order Thermal direct and use code TylerClark for a discount.

This release has nothing to do with the Explorers but it does get everyone one step closer.

Finished the last little trim piece in the false floor fifteen build.

You can do that on any tune.

They tune on the conservative side…but it’s solid tuning. You’ll go faster on ZFG and still be perfectly safe.

Maybe a little mpg hit?

The FADA delete requires one new axle shaft…obviously it’s shorter. Surprisingly the hard parts are really cheap. Not surprisingly the labor is not…it’s a lot of work. There’s a local shop I’ve used for over a decade and the tech that works on my car there is a fellow ST owner and enthusiast so...

It’s the front axle disconnect actuator. That’s how it normally splits power…now it’s all time AWD. It also gets rid of the electronics that glitch all the time and light the dash up.

At almost 115K it was time to hit some maintenance stuff like transfer case fluid and trans fluid. Since I’ve had a little flare when hit in Sport mode I had a new valve body installed and covered it all back up with a new PPE aluminum pan. I also have the all too common FADA leak…so I got rid...

11K? Why do you want to change all those fluids at 11K miles?

I would never recommend any sane person follow my lead. lol

Sounds like you got a bad sensor. And any 315mhz sensor will work.