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It does suck that nobody will ever see it but the sound with 3” will make you forget about hiding it.

No, I dialed the 1/4” difference out with a rear camber adjustment to -.5*. it’s also still on 305’s...315’s just flat don’t exist right now.

I doubt you’ll find many normal exhaust shops with a TIG. MIG is fine on an exhaust and 10X faster. TIG work is usually at a custom fab shop. Hell I had a TIG sitting there when I built mine...we still grabbed the MIG.

I talked to Bryan at K&N last night. He said their intake is built and being tested now. And I’m sure there’s a nice wait for a CARB EO number...but at least we’re closer than we have been.

ZFG is the tuning company Adam has. HP Tuners is the software used.

It’s not too bad. Take the strut brace off for extra room. Pull the cover off the HPFP and toss it...it’s just a sound dampener and take the bolts out of the hard lines across the top of the engine so you can move them out of the way. After that it’s all standard stuff.

That cover cleans up with a water hose...it’s been raining a lot lately. I washed it this afternoon and it’s good as new...and I actually like that it hides the diff. It’s functional too....really firms up the rear bumper cover with it’s installed.

Exhaust is finally complete. Cleaned up the weld discoloration and buffed everything and touched up the paint on the tips.

That’s that high dollar satin black Krylon Fusion. lol

When sanding the brown weld heat marks off your stainless exhaust snowballs....

There’s no tint over the actual bulbs. I only tinted the top chrome portion.

The leather is coated...basically painted. Clean it with whatever you like but conditioners are useless as they won’t penetrate.

Reworked the upper headlight tint with a lighter version. I like it much better...you can still see the details inside the lights instead of looking like paint. Last pic is the old dark tint.

So after my new mufflers burned in I wound up with a touch of drone...about 187hz at 2000rpm. A little math, a little welding and bam...a pair of 1/4 wave resonators added and the drone is dead.

Working in sections when I have free time for audio prep. CLD and a CCF/MLV sandwich. Should have all 4 doors done by New Years. I went 100% with the CLD since I’m trying to target some exhaust noise...figure overkill would be ok here. I like the Dynapad too...super easy to work with. I still...

Prep is key.

I fixed everything I didn’t like. Well...most things...prepping for a deep dive into the audio next.

They will fit fine. IMHO the perfect offset for a 10.5” wheel is +30 and those are really close. Anything between +30 and +35 is good. I was the first one to have a set of 22x10.5’s built at +30 and many others have used those specs with zero issues. I wouldn’t run a tire that narrow...

Mine makes no interior noises like that.

It’s not so bad. Took about 4 hours by myself.