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I have a 12k lb 4 post with 2 sliding pneumatic jacks in my shop at work…I’ll stick with that. lol

I was focused on the audio and forgot I had this Racing Brake 15” rear rotor upgrade sitting on a shelf for the last 2 months. So those are installed now. lol

Honestly I’d say mostly cosmetic. The oem stamped steel piece is definitely flimsy but if you look deeper at the car you’ll find 2 huge round braces triangulating the firewall and strut towers under the plastic along the cowl. They’re part of the crash protection stuff is what I’m told…but...

Steeda doesn’t have a front sway bar upgrade, only the rear. They do have a strut tower brace as does FenFab.

I don’t think I’ve ever bottomed out with H&R’s installed…and Airlift has a inner spring bag kit out now that could help with lowering and towing.

I’m trying to get info but all he said is Penske. Dunno why people have to be all secretive.

Someone just posted on a FB group that they’re on fully adjustable coilovers…no info though.

I have seen a set…just can’t remember where or who made them. They exist though. Edit: a quick search shows Snailfly makes a set.

Look at racingbrake.com All info and pricing is on their site…and your dealer is stupid and talking about things they don’t know anything about.

The Pro 1/10 feeds the sub. The 2/10 is for the midbass and the 4/10 is for the midranges and tweeters. Each driver is on its own amp channel and ran active through a Helix DSP.3

Thought I posted that. I made a whole new top panel with vents that I flush mounted aluminum mesh over then carpeted.

The Police Interceptor version has IIRC a 260 amp alternator stock.

Yes

I put the finishing touches on my false floor audio build. Base tune is playing music just to break in the drivers for 100 hours or so then the final tuning can take place.

The completed false floor build now that I got the new Mosconi stickers in so the amp badges face the right way.

The details make it right…new Mosconi stickers from a buddy so the amp badges face the right way. We’re working on something for the B&O emblems on the doors too.

Look at the PIU version for a factory upgrade.

Battery and wiring allllmost done. I ran out of heat shrink that’ll fit 0 gauge wire but I’ll get that tape on the wires fixed. Nothing to see with the hood open but the plug for the CTek charger.

If you wanted to cut the hood itself and the insert, sure. They reworked the hood with openings and are working on the new insert.

I would like the I5 hood if it was functional…since it’s not I passed for now.