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I’m sticking with my story that there’s better things to spend your money on than a front swaybar for these IRS cars. Cost combined with install difficulty pushes them into not a good buy territory. I would recommend doing some reading on swaybars and IRS before buying.

Stick your hand in there with a microfiber towel and some soap.

This should be finished up and in hand I’d guess by the end of next week. Hot side turbo piping from FenFab designed to work with the AFe CAI’s.

The part that passes through the glass is 23.8mm wide and I sanded it down to 4.4mm thick to match the glass. No taper. The larger pieces in the pic are the backers…the smaller piece is glued to that. CA glue is just super glue…the stuff I keep is the consistency of water to keep tolerances...

The oem 2.25” piping is plenty for everything short of bigger turbos. The larger piping really just changes the sound…bigger tends to equal deeper tone. There’s no performance difference

If you like lug centric wheels then sure. I prefer hub centric with no added rings. Proper wheel fitment has been covered here and on FB so many times I’m just not inclined to keep repeating the same things for the umpteenth time. All the info is a short search away.

They will not fit perfect.

They’re 4”.

Finished and installed my one-off flush mount rear wiper delete plug.

Ok…so I always liked the idea of the wiper delete but I never liked the 40mm wide aluminum delete plug I used. I tried to work with companys in the U.K. And also Germany to have these made…one ghosted me, the other took my money, sent a part that wasn’t even close to what I ordered and then...

Nope…still about the size of a quarter. lol

Threw some soap at this pig today…she’s almost shiny again.

All exhaust systems have some amount of condensation and water inside them and it’ll usually work its way out at slip joints like that. Make sure those clamps are tight AF. I usually go medieval on them with an impact gun.

I’ve always used oiled filters so I stuck with what I know.

They write a fine tune but dyno tuning a street car is largely pointless. The drum can never accurately recreate street driving. The best tuners on the planet fine tune Street tunes with data logs while actually driving.

Sounds like you knocked something else loose. That’s what the car does when the hood it open. Find that sensor and plug it back in.

They’re not wrong. They have to drive it to get it up to temp…it can take 20-30 minutes to get it above 205° where it needs to be. Then they have to get it up on a lift, remove the cap and finally get to the dipstick. It’s not a 30 second job and shop rates are there for a reason. I don’t know...

Meguiars Ultimate Black works well for me.

Pods built and installed for the differential rear fill widebands. Hope to have the 4th amp installed tomorrow and power to everything so I can write them into the tune next week.

I’m all about finally getting a good hand wash in tomorrow. This weather has been ridiculous.