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Tell them they can cut me some slack since they use my car for their advertising. lol

I’d be down for the lower one also…hopefully the pricing is better then the front splitter because that’s kinda ridiculous.

Yes and no. I removed the big oem badge but I replaced it with a matte black vinyl inlay for that badge so it’s just kind of a ghost badge.

I’ve tested all the way to 30…no clipping. That’s what I would expect with a fully digital signal chain through the can-bus stuff.

Finally got off my ass and installed these emblems from DC Customs. Flat black paint with brushed aluminum hydro dip. I wanted something completely different than anyone else and this is where I landed. Now…take this next part however you like but don’t blame me if you break your car trying...

Finally put on the emblems from DC Customs.

Disconnect/reconnect is literally what they tell you to do in this scenario.

I may just make a brushed aluminum panel for the hood to match the other stuff under the hood.

I’ve had bagged trucks in the past…I have no desire to add those failure points to this car especially with all the road trips it’s used for.

Not at all. I drove in an absolute flooding storm in LA on Monday then washed it today and sprayed water everywhere…there were maybe a few drops under the liner.

The final thing to finish up was closing up the cut in the underhood insulation. I don’t love it…but it’ll do until I figure something else out. I stapled it shut and used pinch weld moulding around the edge. 63K miles and she still cleans up ok I guess.

Busted some suds today.

That would be an atrocious fit on the car.

It’s a floating number. There is no “setting” per se.

What really happened is whatever was positioned to make the noise you were hearing got moved enough to correct itself when you R&R’d the panel. You got lucky.

They are a torque based engine strategy. They will make whatever boost they are told to achieve the torque target. That said it’s generally in the low 20s, but that will vary based on temperature, DEA, etc.

I positioned them so it basically runs down the inside of the strut towers. The right side vent is just behind the ECM and both are just in front of the plastic cowl cover.

I have a plan for the underhood insulation…it’s cut to fit but I need to hem the edge. I’m just gonna staple around it to close it up then put more pinch weld moulding around the cut edge. And one last shot outside. Car hasn’t been washed in a couple of weeks…don’t hate on the filth. lol

Yes. They’re fully functional.

Haven’t cut any holes in a perfectly good car lately so…. Decided to do the Jeep Rubicon hood vents. Final fit/layout check. Here’s where ya get nervous. Here’s where it’s too late. Test fit. These vents were chosen because their curve matches the hood perfectly. Inner cut liked with pinch weld...