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Some of those will require spacers though.

Honestly…there’s virtually zero benefit to a 3” exhaust on this car with stock chargers. It’s been proven time and again. Hell the stock turbo record for a while was on a stock exhaust minus high-flow downpipes. Considering the turbine wheel is about as big as a quarter it doesn’t take much pipe...

Spent a few hours plugged into the stereo doing some fine tuning.

R1 uses Centric rotors so they’re basically StopTech with their own pads. Will they stop shorter? I doubt it. Are they quality parts? Absolutely.

The issue with the GT350 front only kit is the car will nose dive like crazy if you ever really use the brakes hard. It’s not a balanced system. That’s the elephant in the room nobody wants to talk about…but it’s what happens. That’s why Racing Brake came out with a larger rear rotor and new...

Superforged for a balanced kit on all 4 corners that’s a one-click buy. Racing Brake if you have the Street Pack brakes and don’t mind hunting down a pair of oem SRT Jeep front calipers which are actually pretty cheap.

That’s not really a brake kit…just stock size replacement stuff you won’t see any actual braking improvements from

You’ll need a cold side pipe with a BOV flange…which isn’t universal.

I’d try to find out what actual kind of paint it is first. That might narrow down what products will work. Ask a body shop too…they probably deal with it from time to time.

I ran 315’s square way before Ford did their toy racecar build…on the wheel specs I already posted. They fit with no rubbing or I wouldn’t say they do. Pics in my build log here somehwere.

Who says 305 is the widest you can run? On 10.5” wheels with +30 offset you can run 315’s square with no rubbing anywhere. Wheel diameter won’t change what width will fit…at least up to a 22.

Correct, they only press in one way. Has nothing to do with any fluids.

They are absolutely not liquid filled bushings.

That’s incorrect on all counts. And they do sell just the bushings…a friend just had both of his replaced in the car. He launched his car so many times he destroyed those bushings….had them replaced with the new, updated versions at his dealership. This was just last month.

You need the diff cover and possibly one of the bolts in reality. They by law have to replace any torque to yield bolt…you don’t.

They are not fluid filled bushings. Several people I’ve seen have destroyed the bushings completely…no liquid inside.

He said 64K so out of warranty. Sounds like they’re still trying to do him a solid.

Can you do the work yourself? Grab a 2 bolt diff cover, get the car up on stands then support the diff with a floor jack, pull all the bolts and lower the diff while rotating the rear downward, R&R the cover then put it all back together. Probably take you less than 2 hours.

I can’t see those inserts being any source of any NVH at all. I noticed nothing but positives with them.

You have family out of state, right?