Search results

Throw in the springs and bar and set the bar on its firmest setting. Consider adding the FenFab bushing braces as well…the improvement in the feel of the car with those is almost as big as adding the rear bar and for the price they’re a no brainer.

Took them forever. I was sending them test cars for their first version a couple of years ago…they never could get the CEL’s to stop. Glad they finally got it squared away.

Raising it isn’t an issue…the struts aren’t that strong. The issue is how do you release the latch if it fails?

I’d bet that’s one of the spring isolators out of place…likely the top one.

Increasing HP is great…using it is even better. The two best bangs for the buck are a rear swaybar and the FenFab subframe bushing inserts. Either one makes a big difference…do them together and it’ll feel like a new car. If you’re set on HP though go with an intercooler. It won’t add power but...

Nah…Brett did those a couple years ago.

Wait wait wait…I just looked at the link you posted. You put an ALUMINUM rivnut in there? And you’re telling people this is a “solution” to a problem? If I were you I’d delete this thread right now and just let everyone that saw this forget about it. lol

Well you’re certainly entitled to your opinion…but trashing Brett won’t make you any friends…especially when everyone but you managed to get his support installed with the hardware it ships with. Brett is a huge asset to the ST community with some of the best customer support out there. Nobody...

The group I run that deals with stuff like this would disagree.

I mean…Brett has sold tons of those things and everyone else got them installed with the provided hardware so…

Oh really? And it wasn’t you jumping in hawking exhaust systems either? This isn’t you?

The issue is you just blast in and start slinging your stuff while actively breaking the rules you agreed to when you joined my FB group. Your gender is irrelevant…you’re lucky you didn’t get banned altogether…I’m actually the one that gave you a pass.

I’ll cross 100K miles tomorrow…and I absolutely flog this car continuously. I’m on a 3000+ mile mountain road trip right now…beating the snot out of this thing. Not so much as a hiccup from the LCAs. Smart money says those broken ones were broken BY something, not just a random failure. Impact...

You use the Mustang front rotors as well. There’s a guy that makes and sells the caliper mount bracket to make it all work.

You can do the GT350 or 500 front Brembos using factory parts or SRT Jeep Brembos using Racing Brake rotors and parts.

S&B is what run now. I prefer a quiet intake.

Smart money would bet on that.

Yea mine I can hear now but before I cut the hood I’d have to roll the window down to make sure the Turbosmart valve was even working.

You won’t even hear it unless you have the windows down.

The afe rep is wrong…period.