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Ideas? Yep…they’re self induced issues. Go back through every plug and check not only that they’re tight and locked in but make sure you didn’t push a pin out of place. Find that issue and you’ll fix your issue.

It’s ok to ask more than one question in your threads. As pointed out already…multiple threads are a faux pas and will likely get you fewer replies.

As long as you replace everything below the painted part of the bumper, yes.

100% unnecessary part that doesn’t give any more adjustment at all than the factory adjustment point. Keep your money in your pocket.

The converters are covered for 8 years or 80K miles. That’s federal…not Ford. They have to fix it. Your exhaust shop sucks too though…average cost is 20 bucks a weld. If you only had one spot break it shouldn’t have cost much more than that unless they had to do some fab work.

I don’t know which builder finished it up but I do remember him saying he went another route mid build.

A good automotive product won’t have ammonia like household products will. Ammonia can screw up window tint.

Be wary of anyone quoting you a 10R80 swap…there’s none on the street actually working yet. And if you want the 60 built you want RSA out of Florida.

I don’t recall having any issues there. A few places where I needed it tight I just pulled the string harder. Mine was a hair loose where your thumbs rest in the little indents…I soaked the leather there and hit it with a heat gun the shrink it and it fits perfectly.

Look under the plastic cowl panel…you’ll see the tubular bracing between the cowl and strut towers…that combined with the way the strut towers are such a huge part of the subframe is where all the work is done. That’s why the oem bar is just a stamped piece…it’s just there for the illusion. Take...

Spend the swaybar end link money on the rear subframe bushing brace kit first then toe links and vertical links. The end links literally do nothing you’re ever gonna feel…and that’s coming from the first guy to figure out they actually fit long before Steeda started selling them for the ST…me.

I’ve been saying this in my FB group since even the GT350 front “kits” got popular…nobody wants to hear it though….even though I tested the shit out of the front only Racing Brake kits when they first came out. It didn’t feel right again until their rear kits came out.

Cheap job at any muffler shop.

Cut the old off, weld the new on.

Steve’s is running and I believe still finalizing tuning. Another is running and also working on tuning and trans stuff with putting in a 10R80. It’s all very custom and unknown territory…it’s slow going.

Not a ZFG fanboy at all…I’m a 5 Star realist.

You could have gotten the same RTD from ZFG and not had poorly performing tunes. What they did on another platform doesn’t apply to their results with the ST. It’s a safe bet to say more people have left 5 Star than anyone else tuning this platform. Then their bullshit video trying to pass off a...

Sorry but you chose the worst performing and shifting tuning company out there for the ST. There’s a reason nobody recommends them.

They last just fine. It’s not a new concept.

Lots of people opt for the DMS…I’ve had 91, 93 and E50 tunes I’ve been perfect happy with for 4 years so I have no plans to change anything.