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If it bugs you that much take the letters off…but I stand by what I said…if it took you a year to notice you really didn’t care that much to begin with. You may not like my delivery…but I don’t sugar coat shit.

Let’s call a spade a spade…if it took you a year to find it it must not be that bad and at this point you just want to find something to complain about.

Front or rear tire?

No glass cleaner is as good as 0000 steel wool. If you want the glass truly clean…use that. if you want chattering wipers….don’t.

I need to do this for my rear cupholders…I bought the harness that plugs into the rear console already and it snakes under the carpet to the driver seat where I plan to tap into that light. I’ll have to see if the connectors are the same then I should be able to just follow this tutorial.

If you drive very conservatively and stay out of boost you can limp home. Consider it an emergency only option.

Again…clean the glass. Nothing is better than dry 0000 steel wool.

There’s rumors the 2025 21” wheels have a deeper pocket than the earlier models. Hopefully someone will verify that as true because 1” is proper.

What was lacking that made you do a front sub? In 90% of cars, tuning is what’s needed more than adding equipment.

If you want dead flush on oem 21’s, 295/40’s and rear camber set to -.5° with 1” spacers all around is perfect. If you’re not into cutting the studs use Eibach 30mm spacers…they’ll push the wheels out less than 5mm over a 1” spacer and still look great. 1.25’s are never the answer.

Clean the blades with denatured alcohol and clean the glass dry with 0000 steel wool. That should take care of it.

Does nothing for me at all. I’m not a fan of all the full digital stuff…there’s no life to it. When my ST goes to its grave I’ll be going back to a Mk7.5 Golf R…it was the perfect blend of digital and analog. We have a Mk8 GTI and I despise the interior…but it’s the wife’s so I don’t really...

I use one of those small snap blade retractable knives…they have a really nice, long pointed end that slips right through. Whatever you do…don’t ever try to drill through it. I learned that the hard way.

The Timberline version is the only one that comes apart. The normal blue ovals do not. For the TL over you just cut the ends off the melted plastic pins and it pops apart.

They’re a reputable company if that’s what you’re asking.

It’s astounding how many shops don’t know how to align these things 5 years in.

It’s a slotted connection, not a cam or eccentric, but otherwise correct.

I don’t even have a spare…I’m deleting it soon. Mine is leaking anyway so I might as well get rid of the whole thing.

I just cropped this one.

Sure if you hate your transmission.