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It came out as well as I could have hoped. Pretty much spot on to my “render”. Still needs a lot of cleaning and paint correction on the rest of the car and I can’t wait to get the new wheels on.

My “render” first then reality…can’t get much closer than that. The new dual 4.5” tips on the new Thermal R&D 3” exhaust look pretty dope too.

Dude…put the car in service mode. Read my post again about how it sets the pad height correctly for the e-brake. Bleed it in or out of service mode…it doesn’t matter.

Yes.

That’s if you’re working on the front brakes. You need it for the rear because that’s what retracts the Pistons and also sets the correct pad height for the emergency break when you take it out out of maintenance mode.

Dude…then don’t run one.

Once they’re on it’s a normal bleed process. I use a vacuum bleeder myself but that’s just because we have on at work for our fleet trucks.

Put it into service mode, do all of your work then kick it out. If it gets hung like some have you can easily force it out with Forscan so don’t panic.

Everything is back from paint and better than I hoped. Reassembly tomorrow.

Well the 25’s haven’t been out long and you can’t tune them so nobody is putting any power on that bolt yet. Once they do…you’ll see the same thing. Nothing changed from older models. And ID Speed is the best brace on the market.

Any 315 MHz sensor will work.

I need a few more things to show up but soon this will be the vent in the spare tire well for the subs.

Don’t waste a whole day at the dealership. Any tire shop can swap them out in a matter of minutes.

You won’t be able to tell a difference between any of the good options on the market. Buy the one that’s on sale….usually CVF with Tyler Clark’s discount code is the best deal going.

They’re about 35 bucks a set on eBay.

They serve a car audio function for me…and I like it better than a hard, plastic dash.

Condensation in the pipes mixing with soot from the exhaust and passing out through the connections in the exhaust. Perfectly normal.

Man it’s deep down in there. Take off the radio bezel completely then remove the module that behind it…then hunt down the plug end on the harness.

No. I believe the shop they were shipped to ghosted Brian.

Just unplug it and do whatever you want with it.