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H&R has forwarded my theory to the engineers in Germany. Now we wait.

I did speak to Eibach and they said they add isolators to their springs because in testing, although rare, they would get a rattle from the coils which make contact. This is omitted from H&R springs.

I have a theory why only the passenger's side rattles. The factory coils are linear and identical side to side. Because they are linear they have evenly spaced coils that do not contact one another, allowing for variation in spring behavior when installed on both sides. No interference, no...

Highly debated topic. From what I gather, at least for the Explorer ST, running factory turbos, the factory intake is not a restriction. My question would be this, does the waste gate duty change between the factory intake and an aftermarket intake on a tuned factory turbo ST? That would be...

Spring is properly clocked and seated. The dead coils are contacting each other. I spoke with H&R on the phone and they say they have not had any reports of this from our platform but this is not the case. It is rare but has happened. H&R does not have a solution for me yet and asked I wait...

I believe I found the source. H&R spring dead coils rattling. Sound is gone when I isolate them.

My next plan is to see if the AC lines end up making contact with the rear sub frame as it compresses on the bushings. There are lines that travel over the rear subframe which I have verified don’t rattle. They do run pretty close to the subframe but are not making contact. My thought is the...

The air and borescope ideas are good ones, I have neither but will possibly source them at some point. For S&Gs tonight I removed the Steeda vertical link insert hoping it was rattling but no luck. Back it went in. Spent another 40 minutes or so inside and out trying to find a source. I'm...

Yes I focused in on the belt mounts and retractors. I even pulled the belt all the way out to put pressure on it. After a ridiculous amount of time trying to isolate it, I found the noise is specifically in the area in the red circle and I believe it to be coming from outside of the panel...

It’s a 2025 with metal nuts and no shield on the passengers side.

Hopefully not. There are areas where I have circled in the photo that have cavities, I tried to poke around from both inside the vehicle and through the upper strut mount bolt holes and did not find anything.

Yes checked the hangers.

Yes I have ran a mallet over nearly everything inside and out. I can rock the vehicle back and forth and nothing, only present while driving. I am not able to get anything to make any noise while tapping. I even ran a magnet inside every cavity I could find to see if there was any loose...

This one has been a challenge. 2025 8800 miles. Rattle present for months, prior to suspension work. I thought it was the tools I had stored in the rear rattling but after removing the tools the rattle still existed. Metallic rattle on passenger’s side rear wheel well area while driving over...

I have not tried it but thought maybe try it prior to see if ti would be an option before either buying the UPR can or using heat. You could also go JLT and get a good amount of collection from that.

I would try these first. https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-line-and-ac-quick-disconnect-tool-6-piece-63595.html

They tell you the diff "blew up" yet say it is safe to drive for a couple weeks? Be prepared for the issue to be something other than the rear differential.

You have a vibration while stopped in gear? Not sure how the rear diff would influence anything in that scenario. Did they explain what failed in the diff?

Try tire rack. They have some massively discounted now. Some older manufacturing dates...

Post #51 clarifies it.