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Completely different prep work and coatings to start with. Emblems are done with automotive paint. Prepping the chrome is key so it doesn’t chip. That’s after you disassemble the emblems and again, the ST front emblem can’t be disassembled. They’re using emblems from another model.

You could hear the power steering pump huh? Are ya sure about that? lol

Everyone thinks they can do a quality job for cheaper...until they try. And you can’t use an OEM front emblem for these...they don’t come apart to paint.

On what planet is rain in the exhaust tips a problem? lol There’s condensation in an exhaust system on a daily basis...you drip out more water than would even get into the system via rain drops.

It’s to keep them clean. Period. The fumes will still rise no matter if they come straight out the back or fire down. Exhaust is hot. Heat rises.

That’s bullshit. People have been using it for years with no bad effects. Just wash that spot off when you’re done and hit it with some quick detailer.

Mark around the old badge with painters tape, pop the old badge off, clean off the tape residue with GooGone or an Eraser Wheel and slap the new one on.

There’s only 2 options for this new platform. Steeda with 1/1 drop springs and H&R with 1.6/1.75 which is what I have. Many of us are hoping for something better in the future.

Rotors are larger f/r and the front calipers are larger. I need to cross the PN’s but the front calipers look to be from an F150.

Oem 21’s are 30.7” tall. 305/35’s are 30.4...you’re not gonna notice 1.5mm difference in filling out the fenderwell. A 305/40 is 31.6”....and with the drop coils and offset I run that extra ~1/2” would rub the fender liner when turning. If you dial the rear camber to -.5* no spacer is needed out...

Oh they’re different? Mine is matte black and chrome...anything is better than blue. I’m reading this without my glasses...I tend to miss details.

No I meant I can send you one. I have it too. lol

Want an installed pic? lol

Shove the brake pedal to the floor.

Sport mode, TC off, 3000 rpm and let it eat.

That’s not bad at all. I wound up slotting the inboard UCA holds a little more and left it at -.5 on both sides.

Pixelwerks in Humble. Very well known shop over here. I’m just gonna do them in gloss black like the other pillars. I saved this pic a while back...I like it...I think. lol

Nice. What’s the ETA? I got quoted $175 to wrap my c-pillars...not sure if that’s high or not but it’s the best known shop around Houston so I guess they’ll be worth it.

I opened up the slots for the UCA bolt a hair then did a normal alignment.

There’s 1 cat in each DP...the SPD DP’s will have high flows.