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Can’t be an old busted up BMX’er if you can’t move your bike around. Kuat Transfer 2 to the rescue.

I’m looking forward to seeing how 305’s hook.

I have a few things planned myself that I’ll keep quiet until I have time to make them happen...like the door handle thing I just posted in my build log here.

So...I hate key holes. Always have. lol A trick I found out with my last F150 is that you can move around the door handle covers to hide them. If you ever need the actual key the cover pops off in 2 seconds once you know how to do it. I grabbed a used rear handle off LKQ for $60 and my local...

30 second with a Sparpie...done.

Same here with the springs. My wheels are 22x10.5 +30 With the 305/35’s they will be almost dead flush with the fenders...which is what I’m going for. I have at least 3 more weeks to wait for wheels. Hopefully the springs will be here just before but I can slap those in in a few hours.

What offset on the 10.5? I’ll be running the 305/35/22 to keep the height as close as I can to stock. 315/35 is exactly the same but I need to see the fit on these first.

That RR is a lot smaller though. I don’t know if a 285 will give you the look you’re after. It’s gonna look pretty narrow.

Why the different widths? 10.5 will easily fit if you wanted to go wider and run a 305.

I’m looking forward to getting mine apart so I can see how the strut mounts on top and bottom. If it’s anything like my 2016 F150 fabbing up top and bottom conversion plates to run a good double adjustable Viking coilover will be a piece of cake. Pair those with a double adjustable Viking rear...

Keep in mind a 1/2” slip on spacer will eliminate the hub centric fit of the wheel...you’ll essentially be making them lug centric which can lead to vibration issues.

I was just looking at their stuff the other day. I’d be interested to see what they can come up with.

I plan to do basically the same. The rear springs will be easy to trim if the pics being shown are actual parts and they’re square end springs. The front may be a little harder.

Lowering is nice...I wonder what the limit is and still be able to be aligned properly though? Anyone seen that info anywhere?

Yea...I’m gonna need moar lows to swap. 1.6/1.75 isn’t much but it’s better than nothing....and that’s “estimated” I think 2-2.25” would be better and I’d swap if someone came out with that.

I’m more interested in Steeda doing trailing arms, links and swaybars than coilovers at this point.