Safety Recall 22S27 Rear Axle Bolt Fractures

[TMac]

Sorry Dale, but this pic shows 4 studs and 4 nuts. Me thinks your definition of “stud” is incorrect.

Y'all need to reread the posts! #472 shows a custom ARP stud setup. #473 was posted right after showing a 4 bolt diff with bolts. Then people started getting confused between comments on the two pics.

 

[TheNorth]

Did your ever get a reply back from APR? I would be interested.

I just reached out again, so I'll update if I hear back.

 

[Dale5403]

Sorry Dale, but this pic shows 4 studs and 4 nuts. Me thinks your definition of “stud” is incorrect.

That picture is studs. I was commenting on the pictures of the rear end that are posted. Those are clearly bolts and not studs. Maybe I wasn't clear enough.

 

[Mekks082]

When I first brought up the stud/nut. I was referring to the picture of the black ARP 3 bolt. If you zoom in you can see the end of the stud looks to have an hex indent to tighten and it also appears you can see threads protruding above the nut.

 

[Dale5403]

When I first brought up the stud/nut. I was referring to the picture of the black ARP 3 bolt. If you zoom in you can see the end of the stud looks to have an hex indent to tighten and it also appears you can see threads protruding above the nut.

My computer wont let me zoom in on a PNG image. The image as is it's hard to tell much. I wonder why they would choose to use a stud instead of a bolt. Seems to me like it could be a problem if it ever needs to be removed as the nut could come off and leave the stud behind.

 

[FORZDA3]

Studs and nuts are much stronger than the original bolts. The stud can be removed just like a bolt by locking two nuts together on it. A single ARP stud/nut would definitely not break, so the next thing would be the threaded hole in the aluminum cover with the same end result of loose diff. The two(4) bolt setup is obviously the best system. Ford screwed up, simple as that. Maybe they’ve implemented the real fix (4 bolts) going forward. Firestarter’s head may explode…

 

[Dale5403]

Studs and nuts are much stronger than the original bolts. The stud can be removed just like a bolt by locking two nuts together on it. A single ARP stud/nut would definitely not break, so the next thing would be the threaded hole in the aluminum cover with the same end result of loose diff. The two(4) bolt setup is obviously the best system. Ford screwed up, simple as that. Maybe they’ve implemented the real fix (4 bolts) going forward. Firestarter’s head may explode…

It sounds like Ford has gone back to using 4 bolts. And that's good news. I'm sure Firestarter will go nuts. But he is missing more that a bolt in his butt.

 

[Cajun Heat]

I just reached out again, so I'll update if I hear back.

If any one can the full specs/dimensions on the OEM bolt, APR is willing to match it up with something. Anyone?!?

 

[Waters]

Just got my 2021 ST back from the dealer with the "recall" performed. This parking break thing is driving me crazy . . . really have to give it some gas to get it moving out of park and into reverse in my garage - scares the crap out of me every time. I'm kind of a novice when it comes to this stuff - but it is really bumming me out and I often find myself drifting into Ford's build and price website . . . grrrrrr. Any chance there's a real Ford fix out there that isn't this BS software engaging the parking brake?

Loved my ST . . . darn it.

 

[TMac]

I park on an incline in my driveway. As such, I always set the e-brake. To start the car, I have to push on the brake and press a button which takes about a two seconds. After starting the car I push the e-brake button to release and then push the Auto Start/Stop. Takes me about a second. I certainly wouldn't decide to hate my car because of that. However, here's a solution for you!

 

[Waters]

I park on an incline in my driveway. As such, I always set the e-brake. To start the car, I have to push on the brake and press a button which takes about a two seconds. After starting the car I push the e-brake button to release and then push the Auto Start/Stop. Takes me about a second. I certainly wouldn't decide to hate my car because of that. However, here's a solution for you!

Thanks . . . the issue is more that the break will not release with the e-break release and only releases with the depression of the gas which provides quite a bit more rpm than needed backing out of the garage. I get it, first world problem . . . but this wasn't the case prior to the software fix. I guess I need to see if engaging the parking break unnecessarily every time I park would allow a work around and get the e-break to disengage without gas. Don't hate the car . . . and thanks for your helpful feedback.

 

[KANSAS]

I have never taken mine in for the recall since it is a worthless fix. I always press the e-brake button anyway. I always assumed if the recall is installed that you could still release the e-brake first before driving away. Are others seeing that you have to press the gas in gear to get the brake to release? That the button will not work before then? This would not be good.

 

[Mekks082]

Mine was bought with the "fix" installed. The button works for me.

 

[Waters]

My button seems to work if I engage it prior to parking . . . i guess that's the solution . . . dumb.

 

[Jeppo]

The Parking Brake can always be released with the button. No issue for me.

 

[KANSAS]

Thanks . . . the issue is more that the break will not release with the e-break release and only releases with the depression of the gas which provides quite a bit more rpm than needed backing out of the garage. I get it, first world problem . . . but this wasn't the case prior to the software fix. I guess I need to see if engaging the parking break unnecessarily every time I park would allow a work around and get the e-break to disengage without gas. Don't hate the car . . . and thanks for your helpful feedback.

Are you sure you are pressing the e-brake button to release it and not pulling up on it?

 

[Waters]

Are you sure you are pressing the e-brake button to release it and not pulling up on it?

I'm pretty sure . . . but I'll double check. If that's the case, I'm an idiot. If it's not . . . going to talk to the service dept that did the work.

Thanks everyone - and sorry if I derailed the conversation here . . . lots of good info all around.

 

[KANSAS]

I'm pretty sure . . . but I'll double check. If that's the case, I'm an idiot. If it's not . . . going to talk to the service dept that did the work.

Thanks everyone - and sorry if I derailed the conversation here . . . lots of good info all around.

Not an idiot. I brought it up because someone else here was doing that.

 

[TXCarbonized]

Any news on if/when Ford will roll out a second part to the recall where they update the actual hardware on civilian vehicles?

 

[Clump]

My '22 came with it. At first it seemed to need quite a bit of throttle, but I've found a quick tap of the pedal is enough to disengage the parking brake. If it takes more you might want to get it checked out.