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Winter traction is far more heavily weighted towards the tires you have mounted.

Boost pressure is just an indicator of air density. If you're running in colder weather, you need less boost to reach the same level of air density (mass air flow). It's probably a contributing factor to why manufacturers did away with boost gauges for the most part. Customer bitches cuz it...

I understand, but suppose they tell you they're fixed and you install them and find it's not fixed? No one is complaining about issues with the two vendors I mentioned. It's up to you I guess. I suppose I just don't have that kind of brand loyalty!

No blame intended, but why torture yourself? Get a refund on those springs and pick up the steedas or the H&R. It seems to me that whatever mandrel they used didn't correctly address the diameter issues. Waiting for them to configure new tooling seems pointless even if they eventually produce...

Perhaps @Bugasu could chime in here on the trans parameter tables that are available. I will admit, I haven't seen a comprehensive list of the programming parameters are available on the ST transmission. Certainly, there are parameters related to engagement timing related to clutch tolerance...

Have you looked at this thread? Both speed sensor and AWD module problems- resulting in same set of codes.

Lol, the member you quoted is obsessed with keeping his key in the car and using the external code keypad to lock and unlock the car so he doesn't have to carry the fob around. I'm not sure what he does with his other keys, but even though you can do this it's not "designed" for that operation...

I wouldn't get rid of street pack- you also get the "big brakes" with that kit. Additionally, you can sell the stock wheels and tires for the cost of the option.

Visually, there is a definite difference between the LH isolator on the single bolt models than the same LH isolator in the twin bolt models. But without information about the durometer (equalling flex) of the bushings, it's impossible to make any kind of accurate assumption. What I can say is...

Finally found my earlier posts on "ram air" as I discussed in post #14. View here and here Follow those links and you can also find posts from @UNBROKEN on same subject.

It depends on what you want to accomplish, and whether you're tuned. For example if you want the best gas mileage, the 0% ethanol gas is best since there are more BTUs per gallon. However, in my location I also have access to 93 no ethanol gas- it's about 15% more dollar-wise per gallon which...

Oh, yes- the Big Mouth Snorkus. I did a post about the math and realities of that device some time ago. Can't find it now(Edit: found it here) It's worthless. Right up there with a 100 watt computer fan supercharger. Anyone want to tell me how something uses about 1/10 of a kilowatt can add...

I was a member of a Subaru website back in the late '90s early '00s- my STI days. I remember one thread having to do with air filters. A user had put a K&N style filter CAI on his car and stated his gas mileage had increased approximately 20%! I posted a response to ask how this would be...

While it depends on the car, many people don't realize that due to old-style mechanical wastegates (which can be adjusted to deliver more boost), bleed valves, and manual boost controllers, many manufacturers purposely used undersized or restricted exhausts and intakes to limit boost to make up...

I love my daughters, but as far as curbing, a few years ago when I was visiting my oldest, I had my supercharged Jaguar XF parked in the driveway. She said she needed to go to the store and asked for the keys. As she backed out of the driveway (fairly steep), I got to hear the front spoiler...

I wish you would have beaten me to it! I sometimes get a bit frustrated at the same old BS that some people perpetuate. Thanks.

I do NOT agree. Who told you this? A vendor trying to sell you something? Ignorance at its finest. Salesmanship at its worst. Once again, information that was relevant 30 years ago. Take a look at a post I made some time ago....here

Tell Adam at ZFG what you're trying to accomplish- octane, towing, etc. He'll let you know.

Most likely, you do. But look under the rear of the vehicle to the rear diff. You will see either one or two bolts that connect the rear subframe horizontally to the read diff cover. Most '21s have a single bolt.

BOV is worthless. A catch can may help with coking on intake valves in the ST's direct injection engine- not a bad investment if you're planning on keeping it long term. If you have the 1 bolt rear diff, the AWR or ID speed diff braces are also good insurance. The intercooler will also...