Search results

I'm interested in learning what the thinking is on the Lethal springs. I understand people wanting to lower their vehicle, but I'm obviously clueless as to why an 1/4" of difference in height is so important that one would overlook H&R or Steeda to achieve it? According to what I've read, the...

I always enjoy your posts, but I'm not following your logic here.

You seem to be sincere in trying this, so I will tell you this. The way the piggy-back systems work is by "fooling" the boost sensor into allowing more boost...period. Forget all the crap they post about changing timing/ fuel control, etc. That's the factory systems kicking in to save your...

Because all of these control modules are voltage sensitive, my experience is the ST has to have a good charged up battery or you'll see all kinds of errors. Probably 2 1/2- 3 years is maximum. On the bright side $200 for a new battery every three years isn't all that bad.

If we're going to trade stories, here's my first speeding ticket story. I was 17 years old, and had been laid off from my job. While looking for another job, I found a part-time job with a farmer with an apple orchard who was very particular about his apples and I was the only employee. Every...

It seems it was a first symptom of the battery going out. Replaced the battery and everything started working again.

A lesson for the kids out there....a radio is faster than your car!

At 173 mph, how did they ever catch up to you? ;)

Yep

Let me try to simplify my answer. If the wheel weighs more it will hurt your MPG.

I've owned at least 60 vehicles over the years- and rather than list them, I'll just offer that this is my first Ford!

It's very hard to give any judgement about MPG with the limited info you offer. It's all about mass or effective final drive ratio. F=MA- meaning that if the wheel has more (M)ass or heavier it's going to take more (F)orce equaling less MPG to (A)ccelerate. Unless the change in wheel size...

Yep, I agree...bogus.

I hope I'm not the only one who took a good 15 seconds staring at that photo before I realized the "hanger" was a connecting rod!

The calculated amount is not absolutely correct (or there wouldn't be a way to modify the parameters!) But neither is doing it by hand- unless you do it over many, many tankfuls. But it's good enough to be a comparative measure.

Buy a used '20, or a '23 with 4 bolt subframe. As far as '20...lower price, no broken bolts, and a lot of extra features.

I, like many others have not had a single problem with my '20. Only real problem I've had is to replace the battery after 2 1/2 years, and due to a majority of around town driving, that's not a surprise. Nothing else. I've never even had the "blue screen" backup camera issue (knock on wood)...

If you're not "launching", you're probably fairly safe. But honestly if I didn't have a '20 with the 4 bolt, I'd definitely buy a brace (the one you listed or the AWR part) just for peace of mind.

You can do a bit of research if you have time. Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg have tons of things to see and do. Dragon is a bit out of the way from there and Asheville. I'd recommend Gatlinburg going up through the Smokey Mountain National Park to Cherokee, where you can then hit the interstate...

If you've never reset the mpg settings, you should. Mine was showing 14.2 mpg for the first 1000 miles. I reset it for a long highway trip and it moved to 26.1 mpg. I haven't reset it since (several thousand miles) of mostly around town driving, no long trips and it's now at 19.2. So, it...