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I can’t answer that. I would assume so but I didn’t build them so I don’t know.

Did a mini-detail.

There are different levels of converters….from cheap to GESI. SPD offers GESI as an option now and someone else did as well a while back…I doubt there’s many people wanting to pay for those. A high quality 400 cell cat will not need a defouler. A low quality cat usually will….a 2-300 cell cat...

This is an Explorer ST group. You won’t find much 2.3 info here.

Maybe now…but they didn’t start with them. I know where some of their pre-production parts are and they’re not 400. Here’s a hint…if you need defoulers it’s a cheap cat.

You’re paying less because reportedly they use 200 cell cats that require defoulers. SPD and FenFab use 400 cell epa legal cats…which cost more.

I don’t. I replaced everything including wiring.

With a fat tire they’d probably rub the strut up front. This has also been covered 100 times.

That guy posted that on here or some other forum. I told him then it wasn’t gonna work and after I saw the video and his use of rtv I realized not only should he not be making bridge but nobody should be listening to him either. The oem enclosure is pretty small and ported. Unless you measure...

Steeda toe links are kinda stupid too. There’s already an oem adjustment on them…the second one on their links makes no sense. FenFab makes a solid toe link without the extra failure points built in.

Damn…I wanna do the opposite. We should have just traded. lol

It can happen to anything…file it under “shit happens” and hope it’s taken care of to your satisfaction. My brother kicked a rod out the block on his drive home from the dealer in a brand new Power Stroke.

I’m sticking with my story that there’s better things to spend your money on than a front swaybar for these IRS cars. Cost combined with install difficulty pushes them into not a good buy territory. I would recommend doing some reading on swaybars and IRS before buying.

Stick your hand in there with a microfiber towel and some soap.

This should be finished up and in hand I’d guess by the end of next week. Hot side turbo piping from FenFab designed to work with the AFe CAI’s.

The part that passes through the glass is 23.8mm wide and I sanded it down to 4.4mm thick to match the glass. No taper. The larger pieces in the pic are the backers…the smaller piece is glued to that. CA glue is just super glue…the stuff I keep is the consistency of water to keep tolerances...

The oem 2.25” piping is plenty for everything short of bigger turbos. The larger piping really just changes the sound…bigger tends to equal deeper tone. There’s no performance difference

If you like lug centric wheels then sure. I prefer hub centric with no added rings. Proper wheel fitment has been covered here and on FB so many times I’m just not inclined to keep repeating the same things for the umpteenth time. All the info is a short search away.

They will not fit perfect.

They’re 4”.