Search results

An inch is 25.4mm so 30mm is a tiny difference but it’s enough to clear the studs and still be flush enough on stock 21’s and tires. 295’s will push out some but not as much as with 1.25” spacers which are a couple mm wider. It’s just an in between size that works well.

Just get Eibach 30mm spacers. No cutting and it’ll be flush on both ends if you set rear camber to -.5°. There’s no reason to run different thickness spacers.

They’re not just rebadged strut bodies…they’re rebadged struts. Steeda changes nothing at all.

Yea…information nobody can compare to isn’t information. There’s a right way and a wrong way…there’s no middle ground.

You answered all your own questions correctly.

I’ve had tons of rental cars with that…never could make myself trust it. Our house doors have it built into the electronic locks…I still do it myself. lol

Those rear camber kits have less adjustment than factory. They’re 100% pointless and are actually useless for setting rear camber beyond what the car can already do.

I run an aftermarket system with a total of 24 pistons. The company that builds it found the stock master cylinder to be plenty and the system works phenomenally well. I don’t see even a hint of an issue swapping in stock parts. Another popular swap is 6 piston GT350 Brembos which also work...

Master Cylinder

They just snap into place. Push it back down.

You think the small amount of water that comes through the drains is hurting the liner? Let’s be realistic here…it’s not.

Back in town after an extended work trip. Picked up the newly upholstered shortened headrests to replace the others I had installed. These are the factory parts that I shortened 4” myself. They’re wider and match the lines of the seats better.

It looks like the pinch weld molding. Open the door and just pop it back onto the pinch weld.

Do it now.

I saw a car with both…IMO it didn’t look good. They’re both at different angles and don’t really compliment each other. I’d stick with one or the other.

I bought a battery powered DeWalt leaf blower specifically for drying cars. It beats the hell out of any other method.

I use a horsehair brush then dry it with a leaf blower.

-1° is well within spec and there nothing wrong with it. -.5° is using camber as another tool to perfect wheel fitment and make the rear tries even with the front at the fender arch.

I did all the fab work myself. I’ve heard others quoted north of $2K for fab and paint. The cut up Jeep hood and new vents ran about $200, supplies were another $300ish then whatever it cost to paint but I had other stuff painted at the same time so I’m not sure what the hood alone was.

The rear is the lightest tint Lamin-X has. The new heads I’m not sure what it is…the lightest PPF the shop had where I dropped them off.