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for sure, we need pics of the build thread on this project. looking forward to seeing what you fab up.

Welcome! We are waaaayyy better than that other place. ;)

@Nbk4t5e actually bought it. it looks fantastic. https://www.explorerst.org/threads/st-storm-trooper-build.531/page-10#post-8904

To each their own... I LOVE it. When you are spending that kind of coin though--custom is the name of the game. Piano black instead of carbon? sure. alcantara instead of leather? sure. The killer detail for me is the shape... its PERFECT.

Seriously. the Sport Mode cluster is basically begging for one. Intake temps and oil pressure would be nice too, but apparently thats asking for too much info on modern vehicles.

Yeah, I agree that bolt-on mods are 9/10 times ignored. Its why I mentioned springs/sway bars/exhaust, your steering wheel, etc. The lease language is obviously black and white because it was written by lawyers and implementation of that agreement is up to the specific dealer. That being said...

If you want to play with the ECU, you shouldn't have leased. There is specific language in the contract you signed that says you will be financially penalized if you get caught modifying the vehicle in any way. That being said, most will look the other way when it comes to things like exhaust or...

Was there anything at all to suggest that ANY 18" should work? I know that Tire Rack has some built in filters (which is why I love it), but if ANY 18" fits around the calipers, that is REALLY good news. I don't see American racing doing anything special with their wheels...

Thank you so much for coming back in here and posting the answer to your question when you found it. There are soooo many dead threads on car forums where someone doesn't post the solution when they figured it out.

its been discussed before but turning off advance trac isn't particularly necessary for a launch. plus it will save your butt if you decide to impersonate a mustang at a cars n coffee.

Similar results here. Definitely appears the factory fill is 5W-20.

let us know how they hold up. (y) several guys have powder-coated theirs. curious how paint does because its a significantly cheaper route. i have found rust-oleum to be surprisingly durable!

which why it is so important that ZFG tunes are torque-based and he is ensuring a flat curve from 3k all the way to 5k. from a "racer's perspective" the dyno sheet above is WAY more preferable than PBD's published one.

check out this thread. especially the last page https://www.explorerst.org/threads/upr-catch-can-and-orange-fitting-solution.650/page-2#post-10196

i had someone almost rear-end me the other day and either a following sensor or my parking sensors freaked out. so there is something out there that even if you are in D, lets you know someone is on your ass

ublock origin is your new best friend for browsing the internet

is the swap fairly easy? how much time/tools are involved getting the housings off the vehicle and getting access to the bulbs? any pics?

depends on the shop and the location. you will need an alignment afterwards as well. $400-$600 is probably a good estimate.

and yes, my dealer had chucked my stock pads into the back seat. i actually put the stock ones back on though. the HP ones squeak too much. the stock ones are plenty powerful. i can hardly tell the difference.

From one Marylander to another, Welcome!