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Fen fab intake and p0236-0238 codes

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Ohio
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2022 explorer
#1
I installed my intake and in the process broke the map sensor on my intercooler no big deal replaced it with one from AutoZone still throwing codes and in limp mode. Could this sensor be bad that I just bought? I legit can’t drive my car now lol I need it fixed
 

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#2
Yeah, that’d be what those codes would correlate with.
 

OP
Kyle5881
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Thread Starter #3
So you think the sensor I bought is bad or not right?

Yeah, that’d be what those codes would correlate with.
 

OP
Kyle5881
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Thread Starter #4
A dealership near me has one I stock I’m gonna go buy and see because they’re literally nothin else wrong I know the lines are hooked up correctly the price difference is like $70 from advance auto junk part to ford part too hopefully that means something

Yeah, that’d be what those codes would correlate with.
 

OP
Kyle5881
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2022 explorer
Thread Starter #5
It was advanced autos junk ass sensor the one I got from the ford dealership has it running normal. The people at the parts department said to buy oreillys parts out of all of them if i had too. Just a fyi
 

Combatvet

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#6
Disregard
 

OP
Kyle5881
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Ohio
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2022 explorer
Thread Starter #8
Drove to work yesterday perfectly fine got in it after work threw the same code P0238 so idk what to do. There has has to be a vacuum leak somewhere I’m gonna try and find today after work
 

Combatvet

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#9
Are you sure it threw the codes because of the broken MAP sensor replacement?

Mine threw code when I drove in the rain, reset it with FORSCAN, then a couple of months later it threw a code when the temperature dropped significantly, FORSCAN reset again and all is well now.

Check your T-Fitting because I believe that is the major weakness with the system. Make sure there are no obstruction in it from the 3D printing. I also used worm gear hose clamps, purchased from amazon to tighten up the two ends.
 

Last edited:
OP
Kyle5881
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Ohio
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2022 explorer
Thread Starter #10
So I ended up flashing my ecu back to stock and it fixed it and then reflashed back to tune and it’s running fine. I did go through and put clamps on all of the lines too but it was still going into limp mode after that until I flashed my ecu
 

561

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#11
Maybe it’s that goofy looking collaboration of what looks like my house vacuum pipes - spray painted red with a couple of mushroom caps on the end called a “FinFabGrabBag”
 

OP
Kyle5881
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Thread Starter #12
Well I’m flashing back to stock and taking it to ford it’s beyond me I can’t figure it out. I know it’s something fucking stupid too. Started my car to come to work went out noticed my rpms were at 5-600 and had that god for sakes wrench on my dash again.
 

561

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#13
Well I’m flashing back to stock and taking it to ford it’s beyond me I can’t figure it out. I know it’s something fucking stupid too. Started my car to come to work went out noticed my rpms were at 5-600 and had that god for sakes wrench on my dash again.
I'm sorry my friend - we all do things in good faith, spend good money, and sometimes (seems more often than not - these days) shit turns out this way. I was joshing with ya' but honestly, I would never buy that setup just cause of the way it looks. I don't gives a rat's ass how it sounds and your prolly not getting any better gains then you do with an S&B or an AFE and neither of those make a whole lot of difference either. I wish you luck sorting it out keep us informed please ...?
 

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Charlotte
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2024 Explorer ST
#14
You sure when you broke the sensor that whatever you did also didnt mess up the connector or wiring?
 



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