what socket set to get - rear diff and downpipes

[zekenator]

So it appears I may FINALLY get my ID Speed rear diff brace I ordered from Lethal *5 WEEKS AGO*. Not their fault, manufacturer was backlogged or so I was told.

Anyways...it's been so long that I have forgotten...the rear diff hardware I will need to be playing with is a weird Torx bit kinda thing except for different, right? IIRC the videos I watched about down pipe upgrades show that there are the same type of fastener used on those. What socket set should I get to cover these mods? Down pipes are a ways off but I do need them ASAP for the diff brace and I just want a full set because that's how I roll I guess. Thanks!

Doing the ID Speed diff brace, JXB bushing insert and grade 12 bolt.

 

[Royski]

Don't have an answer for you but I see my brace is set to be delivered today.
I'm skipping the insert for now but doing subframe bushing inserts to stiffen the whole rear.

 

[jgwrubble]

So it appears I may FINALLY get my ID Speed rear diff brace I ordered from Lethal *5 WEEKS AGO*. Not their fault, manufacturer was backlogged or so I was told.

Anyways...it's been so long that I have forgotten...the rear diff hardware I will need to be playing with is a weird Torx bit kinda thing except for different, right? IIRC the videos I watched about down pipe upgrades show that there are the same type of fastener used on those. What socket set should I get to cover these mods? Down pipes are a ways off but I do need them ASAP for the diff brace and I just want a full set because that's how I roll I guess. Thanks!

Doing the ID Speed diff brace, JXB bushing insert and grade 12 bolt.

You need an e18 Torx socket and wrench. Attached are the instructions

 

[Beerman]

I installed mine (cp-e) last night. For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to remove the top passenger side bolt, there wasn't enough clearance to get the bolt out with the subframe right there, I'd have had to drop the diff down a bit or angle it severely somehow. That is above my pay grade so I notched the bracket to slip over the bolt and then tightened it down, maybe I'm an idiot (no, I'm definitely an idiot) and there is an easy way to get that bolt out.

Thankfully I saw Lethal's video for the idea. I didn't take an after pic of the cutting, but used a cutting wheel on my grinder to notch the bracket where the red lines are.

.

As for the e18 box wrench, I would suggest getting the ratcheting kind for more maneuverability - I ended up removing my passenger side tail pipe so I could get enough torque on it, a regular e18 doesn't have a lot of range of motion with only 6 positions on the bolt head.

I did the JXB insert and hardened bolt at the same time. Ready for hard launches now.

 

[STTuner]

So it appears I may FINALLY get my ID Speed rear diff brace I ordered from Lethal *5 WEEKS AGO*. Not their fault, manufacturer was backlogged or so I was told.

Anyways...it's been so long that I have forgotten...the rear diff hardware I will need to be playing with is a weird Torx bit kinda thing except for different, right? IIRC the videos I watched about down pipe upgrades show that there are the same type of fastener used on those. What socket set should I get to cover these mods? Down pipes are a ways off but I do need them ASAP for the diff brace and I just want a full set because that's how I roll I guess. Thanks!

Doing the ID Speed diff brace, JXB bushing insert and grade 12 bolt.

Yeah they use those external Torx/E-Torx style bolts. I’d just grab a full E-Torx socket set and you’ll be covered for the diff brace and future stuff like downpipes too.

I remember needing E14 and E18 on my but having the full set saves a headache later. Definitely worth having if you plan on wrenching on these trucks more.

 

[ADHeimke]

Wait…. WHAT???!?

“Disconnect battery?“ Ok, I know a possible overall safety thing can be ALWAYS disconnect battery for ANY work, but it doesn’t seem this installation is anywhere near any wiring of any kind, so…???

”Uninstall the stock rear motor mount?” Not sure how or why that should be done…

“Jack each side of your vehicle up to an amount that will allow you to get under the front of the vehicle. Place one jack stand on both sides of your vehicle for safety and support.”. Seems to be the wrong end of the vehicle?

Sorry, I am lost a bit with these parts of the instructions.

 

[Royski]

Wait…. WHAT???!?

“Disconnect battery?“ Ok, I know a possible overall safety thing can be ALWAYS disconnect battery for ANY work, but it doesn’t seem this installation is anywhere near any wiring of any kind, so…???

”Uninstall the stock rear motor mount?” Not sure how or why that should be done…

“Jack each side of your vehicle up to an amount that will allow you to get under the front of the vehicle. Place one jack stand on both sides of your vehicle for safety and support.”. Seems to be the wrong end of the vehicle?

Sorry, I am lost a bit with these parts of the instructions.

I thought the same. I think it's a lot of CYA on their part.

 

[ADHeimke]

Agreed for the battery comments….. maybe the other stuff is leftover artifacts from a different instruction sheet file?

 

[Beerman]

I thought the same. I think it's a lot of CYA on their part.

The only thing I can think of with the rear motor mount is that it allows the diff to angle down and then get that top bolt clear of the subframe? No idea. But I said "screw that".

 

[ADHeimke]

Maybe…. But the sheet never says to reinstall it… ok, for those of us who have done a lot of mechanical stuff, we can figure out what makes sense and what doesn’t, but for someone who is just getting started and building their skills, this can make it difficult for them….

 

[Beerman]

Maybe…. But the sheet never says to reinstall it… ok, for those of us who have done a lot of mechanical stuff, we can figure out what makes sense and what doesn’t, but for someone who is just getting started and building their skills, this can make it difficult for them….

100%. And seeing how that top right bolt doesn't clear the subframe, I think ID/cp-e would be better off with a notched bracket like the Lethal video shows and I made myself. I'm sure it doesn't do structural integrity any favors, but I still have 3 +3/4 of the bolts fully holding that brace in place, it isn't moving.

 

[ADHeimke]

Competitor models are slotted for those upper bolts……