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What Have You Done To Your Explorer ST Today
- Thread starter TNSmokee
- Start date
@EDWYER :
Curious to hear your comments once you have driven your ST 100 miles or so post H-Pipe upgrade. Both my 2010 GT Convertible and later my 2016 GT Convertible had been previously upgraded with Resonator Delete MRT H-Pipes. Fast forward, I bought my ST in January 2025 and the "H-Pipe" was my first serious modification. I personally find more torque and quicker response from say 30mph up to 70mph acceleration. There is some uptick in exhaust note, especially from cold start, if you are standing outside to hear it. Once inside the vehicle, the fake piped in exhaust noises overtake the vehicle's actual exhaust sounds to the point that you really cannot tell the difference. Looking forward to your comments.
Curious to hear your comments once you have driven your ST 100 miles or so post H-Pipe upgrade. Both my 2010 GT Convertible and later my 2016 GT Convertible had been previously upgraded with Resonator Delete MRT H-Pipes. Fast forward, I bought my ST in January 2025 and the "H-Pipe" was my first serious modification. I personally find more torque and quicker response from say 30mph up to 70mph acceleration. There is some uptick in exhaust note, especially from cold start, if you are standing outside to hear it. Once inside the vehicle, the fake piped in exhaust noises overtake the vehicle's actual exhaust sounds to the point that you really cannot tell the difference. Looking forward to your comments.
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@UNBROKEN :
What brand of tire did you have on it before? Do you know what kind of mileage people normally get with the ST's that are exclusively highway driven (nothing spirited, performance or offroad)?
I have been leaning toward the Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season 4's; both of my Shelby's had Michelin Pilot Sports that I loved.
What brand of tire did you have on it before? Do you know what kind of mileage people normally get with the ST's that are exclusively highway driven (nothing spirited, performance or offroad)?
I have been leaning toward the Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season 4's; both of my Shelby's had Michelin Pilot Sports that I loved.
Got a couple of first mods done today. Installed the JXB differential bushing insert and the DX differential support brace. Tomorrow looks good to install the Steeda trans mount insert and the ZL1 Addons rock guards.
The differential bushing insert bolt is a bit of a bear to get torqued to 176 ft-lb when lying on the garage floor. Leverage is limited even with the ST backed up on ramps.
/edit:
Well, it looks like the torque spec is just 150 ft-lb so I'll have to redo that bolt torquing tomorrow, FML.
/end of edit
The differential bushing insert bolt is a bit of a bear to get torqued to 176 ft-lb when lying on the garage floor. Leverage is limited even with the ST backed up on ramps.
/edit:
Well, it looks like the torque spec is just 150 ft-lb so I'll have to redo that bolt torquing tomorrow, FML.
/end of edit
Last edited:
Got the differential bushing insert bolt torqued to 150 ft-lb. A job worth doing ....
Got the Steeda transmission support insert installed. Followed the Steeda video and did not need to drop the transmission support bracket. Did have to trim thin rubber casting webs to open the holes in the support. Cleaning up the openings took some time (used a small cylindrical grinding bit in the Dremel). Full removal of the webbing is not required. If most of the webbing (very thin) is removed, the insert fits fine. Figured it was a good time to tidy things up since the mount was out.
Got the ZL1 Addons rock guards installed. Package didn't come with instructions but it is pretty easy to figure out.
Here are the steps I took, YMMV. I hope the following is helpful to those who buy these awesome rock guards.
Front guards are held in plsce with U-clips (black); 5 installed per, equally spaced, pretty sturdy and the guard doesn't move. Start at the bottom "tongue", then the top, then the three intermediate clips, spaced evenly. That's it.
Rear guards took more time. The lower two stock pushpins are replaced with longer 'fuzzy' pushpins. Only two stock screws are replaced with stainless screws plus washers and spacers (2026 ST, maybe three screws are installed in other model years).
The hardware installation order on the stainless screw is small washer, guard, nylon spacer, large washer and the screw goes into the existing captive nut. Be careful to note the angle and orientation of the stock screw because the stainless screw is self-threading and it will get hard to turn as it makes a new path through the captive nut. If the screw doesn't "almost" turn in with your fingers initially, don't force it.
Start by removing the bottom two pushpins. Find the gap and carefully pry up a little. Use a proper tool (has a U-shaped opening in the blade) and pry up the pin (don't need to remove it). Pry up on the bottom section and the whole thing should pop out.
Next, remove the middle screw then the upper one. The third screw remains in place (2026 ST, might be different on other model years).
Put a black/small washer on a screw and put it though the guard small hole below the last large hole (for a pushpin), then a nylon spacer, then the large washer. Keep the screw horizontal or pointing up so stuff doesn't slide off the screw.
Go to the lowest hole (where the second screw was installed) and get the screw started (don't tighten it yet - leave about 1/4" to 3/8" available). If the screw is hard to turn, stop, and thread in the stock screw and note the angle/orientation (up, down, close to you, far from you).
Move up to the next screw hole, insert the screw and hardware and install but leave it loose (1/4 to 3/8" visible).
Install the bottom pushpin just to get the guard flat on the fender. There is a gap in the fender behind the guard and the guard will sink in if the pin is pushed in too far. Install the top pushpin.
Go back down and snug up the two screws (snug, not angry gorilla tight).
That's it. Take time to admire your work.
I will aim to get some pictures taken and posted over the next day or two.
Got the Steeda transmission support insert installed. Followed the Steeda video and did not need to drop the transmission support bracket. Did have to trim thin rubber casting webs to open the holes in the support. Cleaning up the openings took some time (used a small cylindrical grinding bit in the Dremel). Full removal of the webbing is not required. If most of the webbing (very thin) is removed, the insert fits fine. Figured it was a good time to tidy things up since the mount was out.
Got the ZL1 Addons rock guards installed. Package didn't come with instructions but it is pretty easy to figure out.
Here are the steps I took, YMMV. I hope the following is helpful to those who buy these awesome rock guards.
Front guards are held in plsce with U-clips (black); 5 installed per, equally spaced, pretty sturdy and the guard doesn't move. Start at the bottom "tongue", then the top, then the three intermediate clips, spaced evenly. That's it.
Rear guards took more time. The lower two stock pushpins are replaced with longer 'fuzzy' pushpins. Only two stock screws are replaced with stainless screws plus washers and spacers (2026 ST, maybe three screws are installed in other model years).
The hardware installation order on the stainless screw is small washer, guard, nylon spacer, large washer and the screw goes into the existing captive nut. Be careful to note the angle and orientation of the stock screw because the stainless screw is self-threading and it will get hard to turn as it makes a new path through the captive nut. If the screw doesn't "almost" turn in with your fingers initially, don't force it.
Start by removing the bottom two pushpins. Find the gap and carefully pry up a little. Use a proper tool (has a U-shaped opening in the blade) and pry up the pin (don't need to remove it). Pry up on the bottom section and the whole thing should pop out.
Next, remove the middle screw then the upper one. The third screw remains in place (2026 ST, might be different on other model years).
Put a black/small washer on a screw and put it though the guard small hole below the last large hole (for a pushpin), then a nylon spacer, then the large washer. Keep the screw horizontal or pointing up so stuff doesn't slide off the screw.
Go to the lowest hole (where the second screw was installed) and get the screw started (don't tighten it yet - leave about 1/4" to 3/8" available). If the screw is hard to turn, stop, and thread in the stock screw and note the angle/orientation (up, down, close to you, far from you).
Move up to the next screw hole, insert the screw and hardware and install but leave it loose (1/4 to 3/8" visible).
Install the bottom pushpin just to get the guard flat on the fender. There is a gap in the fender behind the guard and the guard will sink in if the pin is pushed in too far. Install the top pushpin.
Go back down and snug up the two screws (snug, not angry gorilla tight).
That's it. Take time to admire your work.
I will aim to get some pictures taken and posted over the next day or two.
Last edited:
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