Steeda Subframe bushings

[Ricky]

This is Steeda's response when I asked about their kit and if there was a difference in which kit they send based on the part numbers (5035-J &5035-G): Mainly dimension or fitment between the "J" or "G" selection. Depending on the search I would get both subframe numbers. For reference My ST was built in 01/20 and has the 4-bolt subframe. Their response is below:

Good morning,

We only have the one bushing support kit for the Explorer.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4462-explorer-subframe-bushing-support-kit

We do not know the difference between the Ford part numbers. We have sold quite a few kits and so far we have not received any reports of fitment issues.

If you have additional questions, please let us know.

Thank you for choosing Steeda!

 

[jrgoffin]

Correct - just a single part number. Steeda is probably using the subframe part number when ordering to verify they fit the appropriate version. Just CYA on their part.

 

[twin001]

Easy install, about 45 minutes. Watching the Steeda video is all you need. Car feels more stable, connected. Would definitely recommend after all the usual mods have been done. Not a lifechanging difference but for many, will add to driving enjoyment.

I second this. If I were to do the install again I would remove the rear wheels though. I did the passenger side with the wheel on, it is doable but a little cramped. I did the driver side with wheel off, MUCH easier.

 

[SimonsGTS]

I installed these bushings today, it took about an hour and a half wheels up to wheels down. The bushings fit perfectly and the install went smooth since Steeda's instructions were spot on. I did remove the rear wheels for more space which makes the install much easier. I recommend leaving one sub-frame bolt loosened but installed to prevent any alignment issues when re-installing the bolt. I haven't drove it yet since the install was cutting into my drinking time, but I will drive it this week.

I want to thank Steeda and John Marton for great customer service, there was some issues with their new shipping insurance but they made sure I was taken care of. Thank you.

 

[jrgoffin]

Another install done, took about 90 minutes including tool gathering and driving up on ramps. Didn’t remove the rear wheels and it was no problem, especially on my 8” lift Race Ramps. It was also necessary to unbolt the rear exhaust hangers and slide the pipes to get at one of the bolts on those rear frame brackets, which isn’t mentioned. I couldn’t care less about drag racing, but any improvements that can be made (i.e., stiffen) an IRS rear is well worth it, so I’m glad to have them in. Didn’t hurt that they were only around $200 when I bought them a month or two back.

Here’s a screen shot of the Steeda instructions that show the location of each insert as an FYI. Between their instructions and the video, it’s a cinch.

 

[Cruising68]

Nice. Agree it’s a pretty easy install. I had mine on a lift for brakes so it was easy.

Also have a -e subframe and they fit perfectly.

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[Polo08816]

While these are probably much easier to install, wouldn't solid rear subframe bushings result in the best performance?

 

[jrgoffin]

While these are probably much easier to install, wouldn't solid rear subframe bushings result in the best performance?

If you want to drop your entire rear subframe, burn out the OE rubber, clean the mounting shells, and add poly bushings (assuming ANYONE actually makes them), then put everything back together, feel free to report on how it turns out…after a day or two of labor.

 

[Cdubya]

These bushing supports aren't too expensive, are easy to install, and make a difference you can feel... it's definitely worth it! Anyone with a 3 bolt try to get it to fit? Unfortunately, at least half the STs out there are probably 3 bolt.

 

[Polo08816]

If you want to drop your entire rear subframe, burn out the OE rubber, clean the mounting shells, and add poly bushings (assuming ANYONE actually makes them), then put everything back together, feel free to report on how it turns out…after a day or two of labor.

The labor's intensive, no doubt. A hydraulic press is preferable to burning out the OE rubber just to be able to push it out. I'm not aware of anyone making poly (or solid) bushings.

 

[UNBROKEN]

NVH would go through the roof with a solid mount or even a poly bushing. Firming things up is fine but not everything needs to be hard mounted.

 

[Polo08816]

NVH would go through the roof with a solid mount or even a poly bushing. Firming things up is fine but not everything needs to be hard mounted.

So that's a common fallacy - it happens when people mix up which bushings are in question. Specifically rear subframe bushings vs. bushings for the powertrain/drivetrain.

Many OEMs actually use different (and solid) bushings for performance variants. One that would come to mind is your regular BMW 3 Series vs M3 on the F8X and G8X platforms. Another example would be the rear subframe bushings on the 6th Gen Camaro.

I've actually replaced my factory rubber rear subframe bushings with solid rear subframe bushings and it results in almost no NVH increase. Now if I were to replace the following bushings, you would most definitely feel an increase in NVH:

1. rear differential bushings
2. rear control arm bushings with control arms using uniball bushings
3. solid engine mounts

Suffice to say if people are not experiencing any increase in NVH from these rear subframe bushing inserts, chances are NVH is fairly inelastic to the hardness of rear subframe bushings.

 

[UNBROKEN]

My experience has been different but you seem to wanna be the expert on everything so I’ll let ya have at it. lol

 

[MikeyP]

@Polo08816 Regardless of if the NVH would increase or not, full bushing replacement wouldn't be worth the work. These are very cheap and take 60 minutes (if you are slow) to install on jack stands on your garage floor. I've felt a noticeable improvement not only in launching but in just daily driving with these. And there is ZERO change to NVH. I highly doubt the improvement, if any improvement at all, beyond these Steeda inserts in handling or launching with solid Delrin or full poly bushings is worth the increased effort, increased time, and (maybe minor, maybe major) increase in NVH.

 

[Polo08816]

@Polo08816 Regardless of if the NVH would increase or not, full bushing replacement wouldn't be worth the work. These are very cheap and take 60 minutes (if you are slow) to install on jack stands on your garage floor. I've felt a noticeable improvement not only in launching but in just daily driving with these. And there is ZERO change to NVH. I highly doubt the improvement, if any improvement at all, beyond these Steeda inserts in handling or launching with solid Delrin or full poly bushings is worth the increased effort, increased time, and (maybe minor, maybe major) increase in NVH.

I don't disagree. On a street driven vehicle, personally, I wouldn't bother with this upgrade and it wouldn't be worth my time (or the cost). That doesn't mean someone else wouldn't find the improvement worthwhile.

On a vehicle that I'm going to track, I wouldn't stop at inserts if there is a reputable aftermarket source that has solid Delrin or full aluminum subframe bushings that is being used in a motorsports application. I've run across very few platforms where people have complained about NVH from solid subframe bushings. But chances are that a vehicle that was marketed or designed to be tracked would likely already have a solid mounting of the rear subframe to the chassis.

 

[jrgoffin]

The labor's intensive, no doubt. A hydraulic press is preferable to burning out the OE rubber just to be able to push it out. I'm not aware of anyone making poly (or solid) bushings.

The OE bushings might be bonded - so it would take a ton of drilling and burning to remove them. If they are pressed-in - it would be a total nightmare getting the entire subframe manipulated to use some sort fixture to push them out. I did the job on the IRS in my ‘03 Cobra, and it was spread out over an entire weekend - not a project for someone under-experienced in turning wrenches.

NVH would go through the roof with a solid mount or even a poly bushing. Firming things up is fine but not everything needs to be hard mounted.

Not necessarily true. My ‘03 Cobra has all poly and there is nothing detrimental. Granted, I have higher rate springs and matching dampers, but the higher durometer bushings are only an improvement (although I would not use Delrin or aluminum). That being said, no way would I want to think of any bushing swap here as Steeda has made the improvement ridiculously easy.

 

[musclecarman39]

Has anyone with the 1 bolt rear subframe installed these and do they fit? My 21 ST has the 1 bolt and my vin search at the dealership shows part number MB5Z-5035-J and I'm assuming that's the 2 bolt? I want to buy these along with the rear diff brace but want to make sure they fit. Thanks

 

[Cruising68]

My understanding is they fit all subframes. I had a part number not included in their description so I reached out to them. They told me they only tested on the models listed in the description but they haven’t heard of one that didn’t fit.


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[JCR ST]

Has anyone with the 1 bolt rear subframe installed these and do they fit? My 21 ST has the 1 bolt and my vin search at the dealership shows part number MB5Z-5035-J and I'm assuming that's the 2 bolt? I want to buy these along with the rear diff brace but want to make sure they fit. Thanks

I installed them on my "1 bolt." They fit fine.

 

[musclecarman39]

I installed them on my "1 bolt." They fit fine.

Thanks for the reply! I ordered those, the rear diff brace and the new front pinion bushings