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ST Audio Control D-5

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2020 Explorer ST
#21
You can’t go directly from the “stereo” to the amp. You will need an interface of some sort…could be as simple as an Audio Control LC2i or the best money can buy is the NAV TV Zen A2B.
See that was something I just learned yesterday. I thought this whole time the dsp took care of that. But i am now learning the interface is strictly to convert the stock system signal to something the amp or dsp can work with.

Is the NAV TV Zen A2B really the best? Keep in mind I plan to run and upgrade all speakers even the center and very rear pillars.
 

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#22
See that was something I just learned yesterday. I thought this whole time the dsp took care of that. But i am now learning the interface is strictly to convert the stock system signal to something the amp or dsp can work with.

Is the NAV TV Zen A2B really the best? Keep in mind I plan to run and upgrade all speakers even the center and very rear pillars.
It’s by far the best interface on the market for these cars. It plugs into all the oem wiring then you have either RCA or Optical out to your dsp or amps. I run optical into a Helix Ultra for now…I’ll be swapping to a Brax dsp after Finals this year. That one is gonna sting a little bit. lol
 

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#23
It’s by far the best interface on the market for these cars. It plugs into all the oem wiring then you have either RCA or Optical out to your dsp or amps. I run optical into a Helix Ultra for now…I’ll be swapping to a Brax dsp after Finals this year. That one is gonna sting a little bit. lol
Just looked it up, thats a no for me on that dsp lol you are on a whole different level over what I am trying to achieve lol
As far as interface is that our only option?
Also why won't something like a lc8i work? Is the nav tv strictly to get rid of the oem amp and dsp it has in it?
 

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#24
Just looked it up, thats a no for me on that dsp lol you are on a whole different level over what I am trying to achieve lol
As far as interface is that our only option?
Also why won't something like a lc8i work? Is the nav tv strictly to get rid of the oem amp and dsp it has in it?
The Nav gets rid of everything including the oem amp so you get rid of all the oem tuning and the issues it brings to the table. Any of the LCxi things are pretty much just fancy line level converters…if you have to tap a speaker wire for signal you’re bringing the oem tuning into the equation on some level. Not saying it doesn’t work because it does…it’s just not on the same level as something like the Nav unit.
 

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#25
The Nav gets rid of everything including the oem amp so you get rid of all the oem tuning and the issues it brings to the table. Any of the LCxi things are pretty much just fancy line level converters…if you have to tap a speaker wire for signal you’re bringing the oem tuning into the equation on some level. Not saying it doesn’t work because it does…it’s just not on the same level as something like the Nav unit.
Ok that clears things up, now if using let's just say the lc8i for now, and if i get a dsp won't the dsp take care of any issues the stock system may introduce once tuning it? I know the stock amp reduces the sound as you raise the volume which in turn will give a lower signal to the lc8i but can't that be adjusted for on the dsp?
 

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#26
Ok that clears things up, now if using let's just say the lc8i for now, and if i get a dsp won't the dsp take care of any issues the stock system may introduce once tuning it? I know the stock amp reduces the sound as you raise the volume which in turn will give a lower signal to the lc8i but can't that be adjusted for on the dsp?
It can get pretty complicated when it comes to things like all pass filters which the oems seem to use often…especially when you need to use one or five of your own. Reality is…99% of people are gonna be perfectly happy with a line level converter, amps and adding a sub or 2. Going active with a dsp is a steep learning curve…very steep. I don’t think I’d recommend it to anyone that wasn’t already into car audio or had some friends that could help them out. Tuning makes my brain hurt and I lean on a friend who’s considered one of the best tuners out there for help.
 

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#27
It can get pretty complicated when it comes to things like all pass filters which the oems seem to use often…especially when you need to use one or five of your own. Reality is…99% of people are gonna be perfectly happy with a line level converter, amps and adding a sub or 2. Going active with a dsp is a steep learning curve…very steep. I don’t think I’d recommend it to anyone that wasn’t already into car audio or had some friends that could help them out. Tuning makes my brain hurt and I lean on a friend who’s considered one of the best tuners out there for help.
I agree with the tuning part being a headache, not that I've tuned audio but I've tuned cars and that is a headache, but didn't think it would be that bad as from the videos I've seen they made it seem likea a pretty basic process to learn and do, it takes time yes but not super complex from what I saw, but then again they probably left all the hard stuff out. But with what you said I feel like I'm bitting off more than I can chew, especially as this isn't anything for competitions or using high res audio. Just simply a good sounding clean system over oem as I hate it. The sub barely gets moving at all when I removed the panel last time and its just lacking in every aspect, highs, mids, and lows. Looks like a line out converter will be the way to go and a bunch of sound deadening which has also been a learning curve on brands and efficiency vs cost of them. Definitely some more planning to do.
 

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Stone17
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Thread Starter #28
For speaker:
Front Speaker : Focal Inside IS FORD 690
Rear Speaker : Focal Inside IC FORD 165

The tweeters on the Focal are bright. Using my laptop to turn down the 8K for the tweeter make it sound much better on the ears.

I follow this video on the speaker and amp installed.
 

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#29
For speaker:
Front Speaker : Focal Inside IS FORD 690
Rear Speaker : Focal Inside IC FORD 165

The tweeters on the Focal are bright. Using my laptop to turn down the 8K for the tweeter make it sound much better on the ears.

I follow this video on the speaker and amp installed.
You did the doors only?
Also only using the audiocontrol for the input signal or is their another interface you are using in between?
 

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Stone17
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Thread Starter #30
You did the doors only?
Also only using the audiocontrol for the input signal or is their another interface you are using in between?
I replaced all the door speaker. I only have the 6 speaker setup.

The speaker are connect to the Speaker Level Input. Added a AC-LGD 20 Load Generating Device at the Speaker Level input.
 

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#31
I replaced all the door speaker. I only have the 6 speaker setup.

The speaker are connect to the Speaker Level Input. Added a AC-LGD 20 Load Generating Device at the Speaker Level input.
Are those needed for the car?
 

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Stone17
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Thread Starter #33
This was the reply from Audio Control tech.
"I'm not 100% sure this vehicle needs LGDs installed. If it does, it would likely need the AC-LGD 20s similar to the non-amplified Ford Bronco but I haven't heard of the Explorers having any issues without them."

I just added them incase the radio freaks out and turn off the channel. Like the Dodge back in 2005.
 

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#34
Called Crutchfield since it was all overwhelming or maybe I just needed someone to explain it to me over the phone.

So this is what he recommended to install which i am assuming is the same as the Nav TV Zen. The pac amp pro. This whole time I thought it grabbed the signal after the amp but it does it before getting to the amp and thats what threw me off.
He said I can grab the signal for the rear two speaker doors to send to the rear pillar speakers but I was always concerned about their being a time delay.
 

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#35
B
This was the reply from Audio Control tech.
"I'm not 100% sure this vehicle needs LGDs installed. If it does, it would likely need the AC-LGD 20s similar to the non-amplified Ford Bronco but I haven't heard of the Explorers having any issues without them."

I just added them incase the radio freaks out and turn off the channel. Like the Dodge back in 2005.
But over all the system is working 100% fine and sounding good?
 



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