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If you plan to use parking mode much, I would recommend a dashcam battery pack--I have a low end Thinkware iVolt. Even still, you'd want your voltages up while car is running to properly charge those. I must confess I am perplexed by the BMS that Ford is using. Without changing battery SoC...

They should work but if they have TPMS sensors, those will not.

Don't know about Forscan, but in FDRS, you would do a PMI on the new ABS module to get it to work properly with your vehicle. Edit: check out youtube... some are using Forscan to do the PMI

Wifeys-ST, did you use a seal install kit? wondering what a. good one is. I too may have overfilled the front diff fluid. I get some seepage from the seal but waiting to see if goes away. May be doing this too. Thanks TangledPossum for the part#... I couldn't find it searching a Parts site.

Not wheel balance causing left, right movement at 1-2mph. Maybe alignment is off?

Congrats! and great work! This thread will definitely help out those with the problem AWD module--there are a lot out there!

It's not readily apparent from your pic where the leak is coming from... or is it just from the rear diff cover?

Lastly double check your nuts on positive battery fuse panel are all tight. I remember someone reporting electric problems because one or more were loose after they replaced their battery You definitely have head scratcher here...I hope you will update us on the results. I wouldn't be...

The original alternator may have been good. You can't go by what the voltage is because that is being controlled by the BMS. While I did not have the same dash errors you did, I did have fluctuating voltages, dipping down below 12V at times. New battery did not help. BMS sensor replacement...

So if the alternator is putting out consistent voltages (no drops) with the BMS sensor detached, then something is up with the BMS. Problem is, I believe there are multiple factors that determine what voltages it will put out, only one of them being battery state of charge. I would definitely...

The device is attached to the negative terminal of the battery. you will see a connector attached to it. Battery state of charge is in BdyCM section.

BMS itself could be the problem. I would unplug it's connector and see what voltage the alternator is putting out. You will get an error message when you do unplug it but this is just for testing purposes. Also, for the time being, change battery state of charge to 95% (from default...

yee, pops out easily with plastic trim tool

IMHO, you need a highly resolving system to hear the difference compared to high quality compressed audio. But if you think you can hear a difference, that's all that matters.

The AWD module grounding issues seems to have a different set of codes than you though? Did you look at the AWD grounding module TSB? Also, what is the deal with the brake code? Very strange. Loss of communication with various modules sporadically are no big deal. I see those logged all the...

I use the wireless for long trips even. Rarely encounter the overheating charging issue. Don't notice lower sound quality either. Those that play lossless over the stock B&O system need to reconsider--waste of bandwidth! I have a separate (different brand) dongle when my wife is driving...

It is NOT a stronger bolt. It is the same spec bolt, just a new one with the latest part #. If you had the recall already performed and it snapped, definitely report it to the NHTSA. Maybe if enough cases build up, Ford will be forced to do the right thing and install the double rear mount...

If you personally verified the Sync version as being the latest (23188), maybe do a master reset and start from scratch.

I disagree. Doing anything through the dealer is time-consuming and a hassle. I DIY maintenance so I am not at the dealer getting maintenance already, so any warranty work is an extra 2 trips for me and usually involves leaving my car for the day. I ended up replacing parts myself even when i...