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I would just leave it as is. I did and nothing adverse became of it.

How about a soft reset immediately followed by a master reset? At least you have 23188. It should periodically clear the memory on its own

You might be able get away with a butt joint clamp if everything else looks good.

Should take less than 30 minute, engine on. Longer? high chance it'll stall. fingers crossed for you... If successful, I'd recommend a master reset and start fresh with your preferences.

When you put in your USB stick, do you get notification on the screen that it was recognized? If so, the update my start but ultimately fail with an ERR08 message. That is the problem with the bug in the older versions of Sync. Same with failure to Master Reset. All these and more are a...

The glitch in those old versions can make updating or doing master resets extremely difficult. Back when this issue reared it's ugly head, we were trying updating (USB) immediately after a soft reset. Sometimes multiple soft resets in a row followed by updating. If I'm not mistaken, there may...

If Carplay freezes, then yeah, could be the dongle. They are not all the same. But check to see if you have Sync 3 version 23188. That is the final version. Previous versions were bug ridden.

What insurance company? No matter who's at fault, you should be working to get your vehicle fixed.

Curious...how fast approx? With Livernois, I feel it is a good 5min or more.

Genius 10 has 12V Supply mode (13.6V constant)... you are good.

You do not want overvoltage or AC ripple voltage. Either charge your battery before you flash or use one with a power supply or flashing mode. I wouldn't be flashing with a trickle or regular charger attached.

https://a.co/d/02LVI7LR Many use a charger with power supply mode for flashing tunes. This one is inexpensive compared to the more expensive ones, like Schumacher DSR Pro, which I use if I'm flashing a bunch of modules using FDRS.

If I recall, there's a screw for the trim behind the screen.

it is held in by 4 or 5 screws,.. the tricky one is on top to the right and requires removing the A pillar. If that is your pic, you need to pull that metallic looking trim as well. Also the screen. it is a pain.

5here have been people who have tried but I don't know if anyone has been successful with Forscan. In FDRS it's a toolbox routine under BCM

BS. you just replace the trim and attach the electrical connector--it's in the Workshop Manual. Then program it to BCM with FDRS.

Problem is, do you really want another set of stock flex pipes that are just going to fail again in 2-4 years? I'd call Thermal and see if you can purchase just the midpipes from them.

I looked at an older rear bushing recall tech document that I had saved. It seems to corroborate your concern that the bushing needs to be oriented properly to perform:

Ok, I see your point now. That is a good question and one that I can't answer...

Doesn't matter about the looks. That is the correct mount. The center metal part of the bushing is solid. Everything in that picture looks fine. What you should be looking at is where the axle inserts as some have had oil leakage after the recall.