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That’s frustrating that the sound is back. What grease did you use? I’ve heard different things, I just went with some stinky red bearing grease I’ve had forever.

not sure if this is the right tool but I used this. Worked okay. would have been nice if that bar was longer for this job. https://a.co/d/cIfaCXf figured I will probably find a lot more uses for it in the future. And I used the cheapest 5$ seal removal tool it came out in 3 seconds on the first...

Thanks for sharing this. It looks like we both have information from a trusted source that doesn’t line up. I have a 2020, maybe the splined studs are different. I used this vid from FordBossMe who is very trustworthy and he was using Ford’s Oasis database for the data. This is the second time...

Funny, i didn’t want to drain the diff until i was sure the axle nut and strut bolts would break loose. Ended up forgetting to drain it and made a bit of a mess

Thanks for the help and giving me confidence to tackle it. Wasn’t too bad at all. Hardest part for me was seating the new one all the way. I bought a cheap bearing drive / seal installer tool like you suggested but the sway bar was in my way so had a hard time driving it in. Finally decided to...

Replaced a leaking front passenger axle seal. Not as fun as the other mod posts but glad it’s done

Interesting that one guide says fill plug 18ft-lbs and the other says 30ft lbs. 24 it is! I did a stupid thing and filled the front differential when I had only the front end on ramps. It overfilled and caused the passenger axle seal to go bad. So now I’m replacing the seal right now. Don’t be...

The transfer case has a solenoid with clutches that bias power between the front and rear wheels. The FADA (front axle disconnect actuator) literally just disconnects the front axles from the transfer case when there is zero power going to the front. I guess it’s supposed to reduce rolling...

Do you happen to remember the cost for the services? I did front and rear dif and trans fluid and filter myself. I need the t case done. Dealership wrote a quote for all of these services it totaled to like $3k with some additional stuff kinda sticker shocked me so i did it myself.

My gripe with the recalls is that there are many things that SHOULD be recalled that are brushed under the rug. Like the AWD module ground. Worse so- it’s not covered under powertrain warranty from what i’ve heard since it’s electronic. Or the Front Axle Disconnect Actuators that have a 100%...

That’s a great tip! I’ll add that in to the guide. I had a car seat there i didnt want to mess with

Those symptoms don’t surprise me at all. My 2020 had a high resistance ground in the AWD module and so it was getting lower voltage than it needed (9v) and it was causing the ABS module to become unresponsive after i put it in drive or reverse so i had NO BRAKES at all until i mashed the brake...

I posted a very thorough Guide on this repair here: https://www.explorerst.org/threads/guide-fixing-awd-module-ground.9634/

Background: A common issue in these cars in the 2019-2021 build date is a failing ground on the AWD module under the driver’s seat. The metal enclosure of the AWD module is supposed to be grounded by 3 nuts to the body of the car. These standoffs are often covered in paint and in general are...

Thanks, glad this is behind me finally. I think if somebody didn’t feel comfortable opening the harness connector up, they could totally just get away with a simple ring terminal under one of the AWD module nuts and ground that wire to the frame. since the case is also grounded. I just wanted to...

I soldered a good ground to the ground pin of the AWD module and everything is completely fixed. No codes, no dash lights, AWD works and all the drive modes and cruise control and everything works. My issue seemed pretty unique because most people have the ground completely fail but mine was...

I added a good ground to the AWD module and all of my codes went away and the car is back to normal.

I’m not offended but as an engineer, i’ll say this is the type of stuff we push hard to get right and management and management’s management, and management’s management’s management shut us down because of rushed deadlines and budget. It’s sad but true

The ST user manual says to check the level properly you need to run the engine until it’s at temp. Then shut it off, and wait 10 minutes. And then your oil should be within the cross hatches like you’d expect. Checking it cold will always read high like that. Scared me the first time i saw that.

With 6.5 qts of fresh cold oil just put in, car hasnt even been started yet with the new oil. This is where it sits. Right where the bend starts. After driving, getting it up to temp, and shutting it off for 10 mins, it may sit at a different spot. I’ll try to upload a pic of that scenario...