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Every interior panel is deadened with CLD and covered with either a Dynaliner or Thinsulate depending on what I used. I had some Soundshield so I didn’t add any CCF to this panels …just Thinsulate

Sound and noise treatments are done…finally. I filled all the large voids behind the rear panels with 1” closed cell rubber foam then covered everything with 1” Thinsulate. I didn’t get a pic but I also dropped the headliner again and put Thinsulate everywhere possible up there too as well as a...

I would think not as long as you matched them exactly. A couple of long bolts would make that part easy.

Didn’t know they had them out. FenFab is working on non-adjustable ones as well.

I’d say I’ve added at least 100lbs net to the car after accounting for things that came out like the jack, spare tire, etc. I also lost close to 100 in unsprung weight with wheels and brakes. I don’t know the exact number but I’ll get it on a scale some day and compare to a stock car with the...

Plowing through shit today….rubberized undercoat for more sound deadening in the rear wheel wells.

There’s access but I wanted better access. lol I also wanted a way to charge if the battery is dead….ain’t go no key hole. lol

You would have been fine that little bit over. Would have had a little better low end extension.

I wanted external charging posts since the battery is buried under that panel under the hood. This will give easy access for a charger…mostly for long stereo tuning sessions on the car but I guess they’ll save me if the battery goes dead too since I have no locks in the doors. The piece they’re...

Could just be a stock photo but those parts don’t fit a 2020 or newer Explorer.

Someone did build it. 3 grilles and a lot of plastic welding and sanding.

I haven’t seen anyone say the source of a rattle was their DP’s. That’s assuming the install was done correctly. The most common cause of exhaust rattles on these things are the oem flex pipes.

False floor done. It’s rough underneath…that’s what happens when I get in a rush. Nobody will ever see it anyway. It’s vented all the way across the amps where the fans are and directly above the subs.

Got the custom emblem taped on so now everything faces the right way. Building the new false floor panel now and that’ll mostly finish this build. I’m pulling the interior panels out next weekend to add a whole layer of 3M SM400L Thinsulate for some additional noise control while driving.

Why don’t y’all start a new thread since it’s a completely different product?

A blanket statement like that just isn’t true. The better products like BOOSTane will come up several points depending on the blend.

I can’t really picture anyone running open ended lugs on any factory or aftermarket wheels. That would be pretty hideous. lol

That’s not a question I would personally answer in a public forum. People are too damn litigious. But…I’ve always gone off the 10 thread rule. If the lug makes 10 full turns before bottoming out…I’ll run it.

Wider spacers will definitely change a few things. I personally won’t recommend over a 1” spacer but I know people don’t want to trim the studs. 1” front and rear with the rear camber set at -.5° will put the front and rear wheels the same in the fenders and I’m sure everything would live a...

The wider the spacer the more exaggerated the camber will get…it’ll actually mess with all alignment settings. It would be cool if someone got alignment specs stock, installed wide spacers and got new specs.