Search results

And they’re on the cheap end of forged wheels. Great wheels though.

If you want lighter than stock it costs money. If you just want to change the look…there’s plenty of heavy cast wheels out there that’ll do the trick.

If you picture it as it actually functions…it makes perfect sense. If you’re not sure how it actually functions…you probably shouldn’t just start slapping in extra bolts.

Yup…leaving 1/8” around the new bolt accomplished nothing. That bolt is still gonna whack the subframe.

My reply was a bit more redneck. lol I was gonna say when the oem bushings deflect as the diff moves up and down the new bolt is gonna whack the subframe and break the aluminum diff cover.

This has been discussed before…it’s just not a good idea.

2.25” inlet tips slide over the oem pipes and give you a little wiggle room to line them up before they’re welded on.

Separate. Look at your oem muffler…it should be clear.

8-9” I think looks better but as short as 5 will work.

It’s 2.25” and eBay is full of them.

Anyone that buys any “Ford” accessories is a moron. They’re all repackaged aftermarket parts you can get cheaper elsewhere.

Pull the oem sub out and measure the enclosure volume, Port diameter and length…then you can see if the specs of that sub will work with the oem enclosure. Chances are it won’t. There’s actually a lot of room behind the trim panel once you remove the oem enclosure…I’ve told people since these...

Let’s simplify this. It’s a catch can…not really a technical part. Find a place to mount it and run the hoses wherever they need to go. You don’t have to follow UPR’s placement. Mine is mounted to the strut tower just below my strut bar…I didn’t like it mounted up front.

That’s an ExST on bottom. That’s not an Aviator on top. Aside from some trim panels the Aviator looks pretty much just like the ExST under the hood.

Yes it’s Vvivid but I don’t remember the shade. It’s also turning purple…I’ll be swapping to fully painted heads soon.

That’s what makes exhaust fun…everyone has an opinion on what sounds best or worst. I think the Borla S is second to worst sounding only to their Atak system. Other people love it…

E30 max without a specific tune for more.

Cats are emission components and will always be covered for 8 years or 80k miles. That’s federal law.

It’s very well known that the oem male ends tend to gall when you remove the rubber hoses. You have to chase the threads almost every time. Of every hose swap I’ve seen done online…every car needed the threads chased on at least one fitting. On my car it was all 4.

You should be reaching out to Bruce at SuperForged with questions like that. You’ll need fluid and I can’t recommend enough an M10-1.5 threading die if you’re swapping the brakes hoses.