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Every single new Explorer on the planet has this same rust…without fail. This guy trying to convince people it’s a problem is laughable.

Report back in a couple of months when the new ones look just like those. Hell I replaced both of my front shafts 3 months ago with brand new shiny ones out of the plastic…they’re both covered in surface rust now. Your dealer probably just wants to shut you up…if they even actually swap them...

There’s an ignore button here…you can always use it.

Some people need a reality check…and crying about a cv shaft that’s gonna rust no matter what falls under that. I refuse to coddle bullshit like that.

Bullshit…you’re crying about something that affects literally every one of these cars…ST or not. You griping about it isn’t gonna make Ford start coating the axles that have had zero failures because of a little surface rust. There’s always a few that just join these groups to complain about...

Check the current fluid level following the proper procedure…let what you find out guide you from there.

Geez people complain about the most insignificant shit. This is WAY beyond nothing to worry about. Even if they did replace them for no reason the new ones will look just like it in a few months…they’re uncoated steel. Find something that actually matters to waste the dealers time with. And...

And that’s the issue right there…everyone wants instant results with no training. Those are the people that carry that I’d rather not have around me if things ever go south. I’d bet money a well trained person could draw and be on target from a holster in a seated position before a beginner...

I’m right handed and carry in a TT Gunleather OWB at 3:30…and have for 25+ years. I have no issues drawing from a seated position even with a seatbelt on….you practice at things that you may need to do some day. Training is vital. Those magnets are ridiculously stupid and a recipe for a hole in...

A holster on your belt where it belongs.

There is no “known issue” and 2023’s are identical to the older cars. Someone is feeding you a line of shit.

That’s more than a scratch…it’s dented as well. Yes, that’s a good price.

Hell I don’t even have a spare in mine. I keep a plug kit and a compressor but that’s it. For long road trips I’ll throw a tire the same size as what I run in the back just in case since it’s an odd size. In your case you at least have a spare…so get the plug kit and compressor and enjoy your trip.

Black vinyl inserts are like 10 bucks on eBay…and look identical to those once installed.

Steeds sells oem ST shocks as an upgrade for lower models, the PIU parts aren’t the same PN’s

I just want to point out that there’s no $2000 air to air I’ve seen for these cars. Whipple is just over $1000 and CVF can be had for $900ish brand new. Not sure where you come up with $2K.

That group exists. I run it. lol

You haven’t given enough information for anybody to tell you what size pump to run. Nobody knows where your tank is, how long the hose runs are, what size the hoses are… There’s more to it than just picking a pump that flows X gallons per minute.

I don’t think I would call 5 to 6° over ambient at 29° “night and day “better. Any air to air on the market will do the same thing. I’m driving 80 mph right now. Ambient temperature is 80° and my IAT is sitting at 81° with an air to air. I say, do what you want and have fun, but there’s a reason...

I’ve done water to air more than once…there are tons more points of possible failure from the pump you mentioned to every line, fitting, etc. Factor in space for a big tank if you want to add enough ice to matter and it just becomes pointless on a daily driven SUV.