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Maybe a little mpg hit?

The FADA delete requires one new axle shaft…obviously it’s shorter. Surprisingly the hard parts are really cheap. Not surprisingly the labor is not…it’s a lot of work. There’s a local shop I’ve used for over a decade and the tech that works on my car there is a fellow ST owner and enthusiast so...

It’s the front axle disconnect actuator. That’s how it normally splits power…now it’s all time AWD. It also gets rid of the electronics that glitch all the time and light the dash up.

At almost 115K it was time to hit some maintenance stuff like transfer case fluid and trans fluid. Since I’ve had a little flare when hit in Sport mode I had a new valve body installed and covered it all back up with a new PPE aluminum pan. I also have the all too common FADA leak…so I got rid...

11K? Why do you want to change all those fluids at 11K miles?

I would never recommend any sane person follow my lead. lol

Sounds like you got a bad sensor. And any 315mhz sensor will work.

There may be no increase in NVH on a 3 bolt car but several of us have removed the inserts from 4 bolt cars due to the increase in NVH.

All wrapped up. The 3rd amp is hidden and ready for the front sub that’s coming soon.

Sneak peek…ready to start wiring. The finished vent through the spare tire well.

They never really pushed that exhaust or advertised it much so it didn’t get a lot of action.

That thing locks the boot in place and your bump stop is upside down in that pic.

The 5/30’s will float over the 15’s something like this. The 1/10 will be hidden along with all the other electronics. The only thing I want to see is two subs and two amps…no wiring or anything else.

So a month or so ago I removed all of the audio in the back. Subs and amps were sold off and the new stuff has all been acquired. I have a pair of Mosconi Pro 5/30’s that will be split with one running each side of the car and a Pro 1/10 that will run the Audiomobile Evo 2408 sub that’s getting...

An inch is 25.4mm so 30mm is a tiny difference but it’s enough to clear the studs and still be flush enough on stock 21’s and tires. 295’s will push out some but not as much as with 1.25” spacers which are a couple mm wider. It’s just an in between size that works well.

Just get Eibach 30mm spacers. No cutting and it’ll be flush on both ends if you set rear camber to -.5°. There’s no reason to run different thickness spacers.

They’re not just rebadged strut bodies…they’re rebadged struts. Steeda changes nothing at all.

Yea…information nobody can compare to isn’t information. There’s a right way and a wrong way…there’s no middle ground.

You answered all your own questions correctly.

I’ve had tons of rental cars with that…never could make myself trust it. Our house doors have it built into the electronic locks…I still do it myself. lol