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Those rear camber kits have less adjustment than factory. They’re 100% pointless and are actually useless for setting rear camber beyond what the car can already do.

I run an aftermarket system with a total of 24 pistons. The company that builds it found the stock master cylinder to be plenty and the system works phenomenally well. I don’t see even a hint of an issue swapping in stock parts. Another popular swap is 6 piston GT350 Brembos which also work...

Master Cylinder

They just snap into place. Push it back down.

You think the small amount of water that comes through the drains is hurting the liner? Let’s be realistic here…it’s not.

Back in town after an extended work trip. Picked up the newly upholstered shortened headrests to replace the others I had installed. These are the factory parts that I shortened 4” myself. They’re wider and match the lines of the seats better.

It looks like the pinch weld molding. Open the door and just pop it back onto the pinch weld.

Do it now.

I saw a car with both…IMO it didn’t look good. They’re both at different angles and don’t really compliment each other. I’d stick with one or the other.

I bought a battery powered DeWalt leaf blower specifically for drying cars. It beats the hell out of any other method.

I use a horsehair brush then dry it with a leaf blower.

-1° is well within spec and there nothing wrong with it. -.5° is using camber as another tool to perfect wheel fitment and make the rear tries even with the front at the fender arch.

I did all the fab work myself. I’ve heard others quoted north of $2K for fab and paint. The cut up Jeep hood and new vents ran about $200, supplies were another $300ish then whatever it cost to paint but I had other stuff painted at the same time so I’m not sure what the hood alone was.

The rear is the lightest tint Lamin-X has. The new heads I’m not sure what it is…the lightest PPF the shop had where I dropped them off.

Aviators don’t have a full screen back up camera. The birdseye view is on one side but there’s a button to select full screen. You just have to hit it each time. There’s a decoder you can get for all time full screen but it’s not native.

I don’t have this issue and didn’t “fix” anything. Just made the changes with Forscan and everything works as it should.

A rear swaybar and Steeda rear subframe bushing brace kit should be on every ST. The difference in stability and handling is incredible.

This thread is about the difference between different springs on different cars. Your measurement only applying to your car helps nobody. If you measured it like I said then others could compare their cars to yours…which is, again, the point of the thread. Example…my car measures 17” front and...

Not sure what’s so hard to understand but no, the delta would not necessarily be the same. If tires, tread and air pressure were identical between two cars, yes. If any of those variables is different? No, it would change things. Let’s say two cars have identical suspensions…but different tire...

No, it would not be true. Axle centerline to fender arch would be identical no matter how big or small of a tire you installed. Maybe you’re not understanding the process. I’m not measuring any part of the tire and ride height isn’t even a part of the question, I’m measuring the suspension...